How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Starter Motor Replacement
Replacing the starter motor on your Altima means removing the failed electric motor that cranks the engine and installing a new one. On the 2.5L engine, the starter is mounted low on the transmission side of the engine, so access is usually from above and below.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the starter wiring. The main starter cable is always battery-powered.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool before starting. The starter sits near hot engine and exhaust areas.
- ⚠️ Support your Altima with jack stands if lifting it. Never work under a vehicle held only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Keep the key fob away from the vehicle while working to prevent accidental power-up.
- ⚠️ CVT wiring and harnesses are nearby. Do not pull on connectors or pry against wiring.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 3/8-inch drive universal joint
- Torque wrench 5-80 ft-lb range
- Flathead screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
- Battery terminal brush
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Starter motor - Qty: 1
- Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2, replace if damaged or heavily corroded
- Battery terminal protectant - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and allow the engine to cool fully.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket. A negative cable is the black cable marked “−”.
- If lifting the front of the vehicle, use a floor jack at the front center jacking point and place jack stands under the front pinch weld support points.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect Battery Power
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Lift the negative cable off the battery post and tuck it aside so it cannot spring back.
- Use a battery terminal brush to clean corrosion from the terminal if needed.
- Always disconnect negative first.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front
- Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the front of your Altima.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front support points.
- Gently lower the car onto the stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
- Never trust the jack alone.
Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Put on safety glasses and work gloves.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts.
- Lower the shield and set it aside.
- A splash shield is the plastic panel under the engine that protects it from road debris.
Step 4: Locate the Starter Motor
- From underneath, look toward the transmission bellhousing on the driver-side/lower rear area of the 2.5L engine.
- The starter is a small cylindrical electric motor with one thick battery cable and one small control-wire connector attached.
- Use a flashlight if available, but do not pry on wiring or hoses.
Step 5: Disconnect the Small Starter Signal Connector
- Use your fingers or needle-nose pliers to press the locking tab on the small starter connector.
- Pull the connector straight off the starter solenoid. The solenoid is the smaller round part mounted on the starter that switches power to the motor.
- If stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently under the connector body, not the wires.
Step 6: Remove the Main Starter Cable
- Pull back the rubber protective boot from the large starter cable terminal.
- Use a 12mm socket or 13mm socket to remove the nut from the main starter cable stud, depending on the replacement/installed starter hardware.
- Lift the cable eyelet off the starter stud and move it aside.
- Do not let the cable touch metal parts, even though the battery is disconnected.
Step 7: Remove the Starter Mounting Bolts
- Support the starter with one hand before removing the last bolt. It is heavier than it looks.
- Use a 14mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the starter mounting bolts.
- Use a 3/8-inch drive universal joint if the ratchet angle is tight. A universal joint lets the socket turn at a slight angle.
- Remove both starter mounting bolts and keep them organized.
Step 8: Remove the Old Starter
- Carefully slide the starter out of the transmission bellhousing.
- Rotate the starter as needed to clear brackets and wiring.
- Do not force it. If it will not move, confirm both mounting bolts are fully removed.
Step 9: Compare Old and New Starters
- Place the old and new starter motor side by side.
- Check that the mounting ears, gear position, electrical terminals, and overall length match.
- Use a flathead screwdriver only to move protective boots or caps, not to pry on the starter gear.
Step 10: Install the New Starter
- Position the new starter motor into the bellhousing opening by hand.
- Start both mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 14mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and extension to snug the bolts evenly.
- Use a torque wrench 5-80 ft-lb range to tighten the starter mounting bolts to Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Reconnect the Main Starter Cable
- Place the large cable eyelet onto the starter terminal stud.
- Install the retaining nut by hand first.
- Use a 12mm socket or 13mm socket with the torque wrench 5-80 ft-lb range to tighten the terminal nut to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
- Push the rubber protective boot fully back over the terminal.
- Do not overtighten the stud.
Step 12: Reconnect the Small Signal Connector
- Push the small connector onto the starter solenoid until it clicks.
- Use your fingers to gently tug the connector and confirm it is locked in place.
- If needed, use needle-nose pliers to position the connector, but do not squeeze the wires.
Step 13: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- Raise the splash shield into position by hand.
- Install plastic clips using the trim clip removal tool handle or your thumb.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall splash shield bolts.
- Snug the 10mm splash shield bolts gently to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
Step 14: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower your Altima slowly to the ground.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
Step 15: Reconnect the Battery
- Apply battery terminal protectant to the clean negative battery terminal if available.
- Place the negative cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the clamp until it is secure.
- Do not overtighten. The terminal should not rotate by hand.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start your Altima and listen for smooth cranking. It should crank strongly without grinding or clicking.
- ✅ If it only clicks, recheck the battery terminals and both starter electrical connections.
- ✅ If it cranks but sounds harsh or grinding, stop immediately and recheck starter seating and mounting bolts.
- ✅ Verify the battery warning light turns off after the engine starts.
- ✅ Road test briefly, then recheck underneath for loose splash shield clips or rattles.
- ✅ Reset clock, radio presets, and auto window initialization if battery disconnect caused memory loss.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$380 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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