🔧 Altima - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor spins the engine so it can start. If your Altima clicks, cranks slowly, or won’t crank (and the battery is good), replacing the starter is a common fix.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery first (starter cable is always “hot”).
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep tools away from the starter power stud to prevent short circuits.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool before working near the exhaust/front of engine.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench (10-80 ft-lb range)
• 1/4" torque wrench (in-lb range)
• 3/8" extension set (3", 6", 12")
• 3/8" wobble extension
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor assembly - Qty: 1
• Battery terminal protectant - Qty: 1
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the key off, and remove the key.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and identify the battery and the air intake box.
• If you’ll work from underneath, lift the front using a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper jack points.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative (–) battery terminal and remove it from the battery post.
• Move the cable aside so it can’t spring back to the post. Prevents accidental short circuits.

Step 2: Remove the air intake duct/air box (top access)

• Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp(s) on the intake duct.
• Unclip/remove any plastic clips using a trim clip removal tool.
• Remove the intake duct/air box pieces enough to create working room above the transmission side of the engine.
• This makes the starter bolts easier to reach.

Step 3: Locate the starter

• The starter is mounted where the engine meets the transmission (bellhousing area), toward the front side of the engine bay.
• You’ll see a cylindrical motor with a small solenoid on it and a thick power cable attached.

Step 4: Disconnect the starter wiring

• Remove the small signal connector by pressing the tab and pulling it off (use pliers gently if needed).
• Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut on the large battery cable (B+ terminal) and lift the cable off.
• Set the cable aside so it can’t touch metal.
• Torque to 9.8 N·m (87 in-lb) when reinstalling the B+ terminal nut.
• Add a tiny dab of dielectric grease.

Step 5: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet and extensions to remove the starter mounting bolts (usually two).
• If one bolt is hard to line up with a straight extension, use a 3/8" wobble extension.
• Support the starter with your free hand as the last bolt comes out.
• Torque to 44 N·m (33 ft-lb) when reinstalling the starter mounting bolts.

Step 6: Remove the starter from the vehicle

• Wiggle the starter out of its pocket and lift it out from the top.
• If it won’t come out from the top, lower it and remove it from underneath (use the floor jack and jack stands setup from the preparation step).

Step 7: Install the new starter

• Compare the old and new starter (mounting ears and electrical studs should match).
• Place the new starter into position and start the mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket to snug the bolts, then use a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to 44 N·m (33 ft-lb).

Step 8: Reconnect starter wiring

• Install the large battery cable onto the starter B+ stud and tighten with a 12mm socket, then use the 1/4" torque wrench: Torque to 9.8 N·m (87 in-lb).
• Reconnect the small signal connector until it clicks.
• Ensure any rubber boot/cover is positioned back over the power stud.

Step 9: Reinstall the air intake parts

• Reinstall the intake duct/air box components removed earlier.
• Tighten hose clamps using a flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall any clips using a trim clip removal tool.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery and protect terminals

• Reconnect the negative (–) battery terminal and tighten using a 10mm socket.
• Apply battery terminal protectant to reduce corrosion.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly with no clicking.
• Listen for abnormal grinding; if heard, shut off and re-check starter seating and bolt tightness.
• Re-check the starter power cable for tightness and make sure it cannot rub on anything.
• If you lifted the car, remove tools from under it, then lower it safely.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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