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2018 Nissan Sentra
2007 - 2012 Nissan Sentra
Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.
2013 - 2019 Nissan Sentra
Inline 4 1.8L
2017 - 2019 Nissan Sentra
Inline 4 1.6L
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  • Guides
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  • Nissan Sentra
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  • 2018
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  • How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2007-2019 Nissan Sentra (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
HOW TO REPLACE STARTER MOTOR ON NISSAN SENTRA 2013-2019 1.8

HOW TO REPLACE STARTER MOTOR ON NISSAN SENTRA 2013-2019 1.8

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Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
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Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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3 Ton
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How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2007-2019 Nissan Sentra (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a reliable starter replacement

How to Replace the Starter Motor on a 2007-2019 Nissan Sentra (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)

Tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a reliable starter replacement for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012

Orion
Orion

🔧 Sentra - Starter Motor Replacement

Your starter motor turns the engine over when you start your Sentra. If it’s failing, you may hear a single click, slow cranking, or nothing at all even with a good battery. Replacing the starter restores reliable starting.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable first to prevent electrical shorts.
  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Keep tools away from the starter’s main power stud; it is direct battery power.
  • ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool before working near it.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Wheel chocks
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 10mm combination wrench
  • 12mm combination wrench
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 3/8" torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
  • 6" socket extension
  • 12" socket extension
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Work light

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Starter motor - Qty: 1
  • Battery terminal anti-corrosion pads - Qty: 2
  • Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Open the hood and keep the key fob away from the car (so it can’t try to crank).
  • Plan to disconnect the battery: negative cable first, then positive if needed.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

  • Use a 10mm combination wrench to loosen the negative (–) battery terminal and remove it.
  • Move the cable aside so it can’t spring back onto the post.
  • Tip: Wrap the terminal with a glove.

Step 2: Raise the front of the car

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
  • Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Give the car a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the lower engine splash shield

  • Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to remove the splash shield bolts.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool (a small forked pry tool) to pop out any plastic clips.
  • Set the shield and hardware aside in a small pile.

Step 4: Locate the starter motor

  • Use a work light and look at the engine-to-transmission joint area (front side of the engine bay from underneath).
  • The starter is the small motor with a thicker battery cable attached to a stud and a smaller signal connector.

Step 5: Disconnect the starter wiring

  • Remove the rubber boot from the main power stud.
  • Use a 12mm socket to remove the nut on the main power cable, then lift the cable off the stud.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
  • Unplug the small starter solenoid connector by pressing the tab and pulling it straight off.
  • Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the connector during reassembly.

Step 6: Remove the starter mounting bolts

  • Support the starter with one hand.
  • Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet and a 12" socket extension to remove the two starter mounting bolts.
  • Pull the starter straight out from the transmission housing.

Step 7: Install the new starter

  • Compare the old and new starter (mounting ears, electrical stud position, connector type).
  • Place the new starter into position and hand-start both mounting bolts to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the mounting bolts.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (32 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect wiring and secure the boot

  • Reconnect the small solenoid connector until it clicks.
  • Reinstall the main power cable onto the stud and start the nut by hand.
  • Use a 12mm socket and 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the nut.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the rubber boot to fully cover the stud and nut.

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the car

  • Reinstall the splash shield using the 10mm socket and any clips with the trim clip removal tool.
  • Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car.

Step 10: Reconnect the battery

  • Install anti-corrosion pads if you have them.
  • Reconnect the negative (–) battery terminal using a 10mm combination wrench.
  • Snug it firmly so it won’t rotate on the post.

✅ After Repair

  • Turn the key/start button and confirm the engine cranks strongly and starts normally.
  • Listen for abnormal grinding or whirring; if heard, stop and recheck starter seating and bolt torque.
  • Check that the rubber boot fully covers the starter power stud (prevents shorts).
  • If the battery was weak, consider charging it fully and testing it.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $150-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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