🔧 Charger - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter motor cranks your engine when you turn the key/push the start button. On your Charger, the starter is mounted low on the engine/transmission area and is usually accessed from underneath.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before touching the starter wiring (the main cable is always “hot” and can short to ground).
• ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands before going underneath—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool first; the starter sits near hot components.
• ⚠️ Keep the key fob away from the car while working to prevent accidental crank events.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Ratchet (1/2")
• Socket set: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm
• Extension set (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
• Torque wrench (in-lb range)
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor (5.7L) - Qty: 1
• Starter mounting bolts - Qty: 2
• Dielectric grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🔑 Keep the key fob at least 15 feet away from the car.
• 🔋 Open the trunk and disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket. Negative cable comes off first.
• ⬆️ Raise the front of the car with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper lift points.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip remover and flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic clips/screws holding the belly pan/undertray.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket (varies by fastener) with a 3/8" ratchet to remove remaining bolts.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 2: Locate the starter

• Position your work light under the passenger side of the engine/transmission area.
• The starter is a small motor with a solenoid (a smaller cylinder attached). The thick cable on it is the battery feed.

Step 3: Disconnect the starter wiring

• Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet and extension set to remove the nut for the main battery cable (B+).
• Carefully pull the cable off and move it aside so it cannot touch metal.
• Disconnect the small solenoid trigger wire:
  • If it’s a push-on connector, pull it off using needle-nose pliers (pull on the connector, not the wire).
  • If it’s a small nut style, remove it with an 8mm socket.
• Take a quick photo so routing is identical later.

Step 4: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Support the starter with one hand while loosening bolts with the other.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 1/2" ratchet, extension set, and universal joint adapter as needed to remove the (2) starter mounting bolts.
• Lower the starter out carefully—it's heavier than it looks.

Step 5: Compare the old and new starter

• Set both starters side-by-side and make sure the mounting ears and electrical studs match.
• If your new starter came with protective caps on the studs, leave them on until you’re ready to connect the cables.

Step 6: Install the new starter

• Lift the new starter into position by hand.
• Start both mounting bolts by hand first (this prevents cross-threading).
• Tighten the starter mounting bolts using a torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range): Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reconnect the starter wiring

• Apply a thin wipe of dielectric grease to the electrical connection seals only (not the metal stud threads).
• Install the small solenoid trigger wire first:
  • Push-on style: push it on firmly by hand.
  • Nut style: tighten with an in-lb torque wrench and 8mm socket: Torque to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
• Install the main battery cable (B+) onto the large stud and tighten using an in-lb torque wrench and 13mm socket: Torque to 17 Nm (150 in-lbs).
• Make sure cables are routed away from sharp edges and hot exhaust parts.

Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield

• Reposition the undertray and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Reinstall any clips using a trim clip remover.

Step 9: Reconnect the battery

• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• In the trunk, reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🔎 Before starting, visually re-check that the main starter cable nut is tight and the cable can’t touch metal.
• 🚗 Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly with no clicking or grinding noises.
• 🧯 If you smell hot insulation or see smoke, shut off immediately and recheck wiring routing.
• 🛠️ If it still won’t crank, check the battery condition and starter relay/fuse next.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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