🔧 Impala - Starter Motor Replacement

The starter is the electric motor that cranks your engine when you turn the key. On your Impala, it’s mounted low on the front side of the engine and is usually accessed from underneath after removing the lower splash shield.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery before touching the starter wiring (the main cable is always “hot”).
• ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands on level ground; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before working near it.
• ⚠️ Keep tools away from the positive cable to prevent sparks/shorts.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• 12" extension (3/8" drive)
• Universal swivel joint (3/8" drive)
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip remover
• Wire brush
• Dielectric grease
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Starter motor - Qty: 1
• Starter electrical terminal nut kit - Qty: 1
• Lower splash shield fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and make sure you have your radio presets if needed.
• Disconnect the battery: remove the negative cable first. (Negative is usually marked “-” on the battery.)

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp and remove it from the battery post.
• Move the cable aside so it can’t spring back onto the battery.

Step 2: Raise and support the front of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the proper lift point.
• Set the car down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield

• Use a 7mm socket to remove the splash shield screws.
• If there are push-pins, remove them with a trim clip remover (a small prying tool made for plastic clips).
• Set the shield and fasteners aside.

Step 4: Locate the starter

• From underneath, use a work light and find the starter: it’s a cylindrical motor with a smaller solenoid attached and a thick positive cable going to it.
• Look for the thickest cable in that area.

Step 5: Disconnect the starter wiring

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to help release the small connector lock (if equipped), then unplug the small solenoid connector by hand.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut holding the large positive battery cable to the starter.
• Clean the cable terminal with a wire brush, then apply a thin film of dielectric grease to help prevent corrosion.

Step 6: Remove the starter mounting bolts

• Support the starter with one hand.
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 6" extension (3/8" drive) (and universal swivel joint (3/8" drive) if needed) to remove the two starter mounting bolts.
• Carefully lower and remove the starter from the vehicle.

Step 7: Transfer any heat shield (if equipped) and compare parts

• If your old starter has a heat shield, move it to the new starter using the same hardware (use the appropriate 10mm socket or 13mm socket if applicable).
• Compare the new starter to the old one (mounting holes, nose shape, electrical studs, and connector).

Step 8: Install the new starter

• Position the new starter in place by hand.
• Start both mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the bolts with a 15mm socket, then final-tighten with a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range) (a torque wrench tightens to an exact setting so you don’t under/over-tighten).
• Torque to 50 N·m (37 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reconnect the starter wiring

• Install the large positive cable onto the starter stud and tighten the nut using a 13mm socket.
• Torque to 15 N·m (11 ft-lbs)
• Plug in the small solenoid connector until it clicks into place.
• Make sure the cable can’t rub anything.

Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the car

• Reinstall the splash shield using the 7mm socket and any clips with the trim clip remover.
• Raise the car slightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), and lower the car to the ground.

Step 11: Reconnect the battery and test

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Start the engine and listen for a strong, consistent crank with no grinding.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine 3-5 times to confirm consistent cranking.
• Check under the hood for any warning lights related to low voltage (they usually clear after a good start/drive).
• Recheck underneath for any loose wiring near the starter after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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