How to Replace the Spark Plugs on a 2015 Ram 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2021, 2022
How to Replace the Spark Plugs on a 2015 Ram 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2021, 2022
🔧 Spark Plugs - Replacement
Your Ram uses 16 spark plugs, and they should be replaced as a full set. This is a straightforward job, but the engine bay is tight and the coils/plugs need to be handled carefully so you do not crack a new plug or damage a coil boot.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool completely before starting. Hot aluminum threads can be damaged easily.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing coil connectors.
- Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. Debris can fall into the cylinder and cause damage.
- Do not use an impact tool on spark plugs.
- Do not over-tighten new plugs. The cylinder heads are aluminum.
- Work one cylinder at a time so parts stay organized.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 5/8-inch spark plug socket
- 3-inch extension
- 6-inch extension
- Torque wrench
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Flat trim tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Compressed air
- Dielectric grease
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs - Qty: 16
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
- Remove any engine cover if equipped using a flat trim tool.
- Keep each coil and plug in order.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- If equipped, lift the cover straight up and off using a flat trim tool only if needed to help release the retaining grommets.
- Set it aside safely.
Step 2: Disconnect the battery
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back and touch the terminal.
Step 3: Remove the intake tube if it blocks access
- Use an 8mm socket to loosen the clamps on the air tube if needed.
- Lift the intake tube out carefully and set it aside.
Step 4: Remove one ignition coil at a time
- Unplug the coil electrical connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling it straight off.
- Use an 8mm socket to remove the coil hold-down bolt.
- Pull the coil straight up and out. A small twisting motion helps.
- Do not pry on the coil boot.
Step 5: Clean the spark plug well
- Use compressed air to blow dirt away from the plug well before removing the plug.
- This keeps debris out of the cylinder.
Step 6: Remove the old spark plug
- Use a 5/8-inch spark plug socket, 3-inch extension, and ratchet to loosen and remove the plug.
- Turn counterclockwise slowly until it comes out.
- If it feels stuck, stop and work it gently. Do not force it.
Step 7: Prepare and install the new spark plug
- Check the new plug gap if needed. Do not bend the center electrode.
- Thread the plug in by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension.
- Once seated, tighten with a torque wrench to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs).
- Hand-start every plug.
Step 8: Reinstall the ignition coil
- Apply a small amount of dielectric grease inside the coil boot if desired.
- Push the coil straight down onto the new plug.
- Install the coil bolt with an 8mm socket and tighten to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the coil electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 9: Repeat for all remaining plugs
- Repeat Steps 4 through 8 for all 16 spark plugs.
- Work one cylinder at a time so the parts stay organized.
Step 10: Reassemble and reconnect battery
- Reinstall the intake tube with an 8mm socket if removed.
- Reinstall the engine cover if equipped.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and listen for smooth idle.
- Watch for a check engine light or flashing misfire light.
- If the engine runs rough, recheck every coil connector and plug installation.
- Take a short test drive and make sure acceleration feels normal.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $400-$800 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$200 (parts only)
You Save: $320-$600 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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