How to Replace the Side View Mirror on a 2014 Subaru Forester (Driver or Passenger)
Step-by-step door panel removal, wiring disconnect, required tools/parts, and mirror nut torque specs
How to Replace the Side View Mirror on a 2014 Subaru Forester (Driver or Passenger)
Step-by-step door panel removal, wiring disconnect, required tools/parts, and mirror nut torque specs


đź”§ Forester - Side View Mirror Replacement
Replacing a side view mirror on your Forester usually means removing the interior door trim to unplug the mirror wiring, then unbolting the mirror from inside the door. Take your time with the plastic clips so nothing cracks, and keep track of screws as they come out.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (each side)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Turn ignition OFF and remove the key/fob from the vehicle.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to reduce the risk of triggering the door side airbag wiring while working in the door.
- ⚠️ After disconnecting the battery, wait at least 60 seconds before unplugging connectors in the door.
- ⚠️ Support the mirror with one hand while removing the nuts so it doesn’t fall and chip paint.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4")
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb)
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Trim removal tool (plastic pry tool)
- Pick tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Painter’s tape
- Magnetic parts tray
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Side view mirror assembly (correct side: LH driver or RH passenger) - Qty: 1
- Door trim panel clips - Qty: 4-10 (handy in case any break)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🪟 Lower the window on the door you’re working on (gives you a safer grip and more space).
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket, then wait 60 seconds.
- 🧰 Put painter’s tape around the mirror base on the outside to protect the paint.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the small inner mirror trim (sail panel)
- Use a trim removal tool (plastic pry tool) to gently pry off the triangular trim at the front-top corner of the door (inside, by the mirror).
- Pry from an edge, not the center.
Step 2: Remove the door switch panel
- Use a trim removal tool (plastic pry tool) to lift the window switch panel up from the armrest.
- Unplug the connectors by pressing the lock tabs (use a pick tool if the tab is stubborn).
Step 3: Remove the door trim screws
- Remove the screw(s) behind the inner door handle bezel using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Remove the screw(s) in the armrest/door pull area using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- If a screw is under a small cap, pop the cap with a pick tool first.
Step 4: Pop the door panel clips free
- Starting at the bottom edge, slide in the trim removal tool (plastic pry tool) and pop the clips one-by-one.
- Work around the sides until the panel feels loose.
- Sharp tugs beat slow bending.
Step 5: Lift the door panel up and disconnect remaining connectors
- Lift the whole door panel straight upward to unhook it from the window ledge.
- Support the panel and unplug any remaining connectors (use a pick tool to help with lock tabs).
- If equipped with a cable for the inner handle, unclip it carefully (a pick tool helps). A “cable” here is a metal wire inside a plastic sleeve that pulls the latch.
Step 6: Unplug the mirror electrical connector
- Find the mirror wiring connector near the front upper part of the door (behind where the mirror mounts).
- Press the lock tab and unplug it (use a pick tool if needed).
Step 7: Remove the mirror mounting nuts
- Hold the mirror on the outside with one hand.
- Use a 10mm socket, 6" extension (1/4"), and 1/4" ratchet to remove the three mirror nuts.
- Set the nuts in a magnetic parts tray.
Step 8: Remove the mirror from the door
- Feed the wiring and grommet through the hole and remove the mirror assembly.
- If the rubber grommet sticks, use needle-nose pliers gently—don’t tear it.
Step 9: Install the new mirror
- Feed the new mirror wiring and grommet through the door opening.
- Seat the mirror base flat against the door.
- Start all nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading, then snug them with a 10mm socket.
- Use a torque wrench (in-lb or low-range ft-lb) to tighten the mirror nuts: Torque to 7.5 Nm (5.5 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reconnect wiring and reassemble the door panel
- Plug the mirror connector back in until it clicks (no tools needed).
- Reconnect all door panel connectors and any handle cable you removed.
- Hook the door panel over the window ledge and press downward to seat it.
- Press around the edges to snap all clips back in.
- Reinstall all screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Reinstall the switch panel by plugging connectors in, then pressing it down into place.
- Reinstall the triangular sail panel by aligning clips and pressing it on by hand.
Step 11: Reconnect the battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket (snug, not over-tight).
âś… After Repair
- 🪞 Turn ignition ON and test mirror movement (up/down/left/right).
- 🔥 If your mirror is heated, turn on the rear defogger and confirm the mirror warms up.
- đź’ˇ If your mirror has a turn signal indicator, verify it flashes correctly.
- 🚪 Confirm the window switch works and the door opens/closes normally.
- 🎧 If any warning lights appear after reconnecting the battery, recheck door connectors for a loose plug.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$700 (parts + labor, varies by mirror options)
DIY Cost: $120-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$250+ by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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