🔧 Kicks - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (also called the accessory drive belt) runs your alternator and A/C compressor. If it’s cracked, noisy, or slipping, replacing it prevents charging problems and overheating from related accessory issues.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; hot parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/clothes clear of pulleys; never work with engine running.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is recommended: remove the negative terminal to prevent accidental cranking.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm wrench
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• Short 3/8" extension (3")
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses
• Torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt (accessory drive belt) - Qty: 1
• Right front fender liner clips (as needed) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Kicks on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Lift the right-front corner with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
• Remove the right-front wheel if it improves access (recommended for first-timers).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the right-front wheel (recommended)

• Lift and support the vehicle with the floor jack and jack stands.
• Remove the wheel lug nuts (if already loosened) using a 3/8" drive breaker bar and remove the wheel.
• Tip: Slide the wheel under the car for backup safety.

Step 2: Open access to the belt through the fender liner

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out the plastic clips in the right-front fender liner area.
• Remove any small screws using a 10mm socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Fold the liner back to expose the belt and pulleys.

Step 3: Locate the belt routing and tensioner

• Use a flashlight to identify the belt path around the pulleys.
• If there’s a belt routing sticker under the hood, take a photo for reference.
• Find the automatic belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm with a bolt head used to rotate it).

Step 4: Relieve belt tension

• Place a 14mm socket on a 3/8" drive breaker bar (use the short 3/8" extension (3") if needed) on the tensioner bolt head.
• Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension (it will feel strong—this is normal).
• While holding tension off, slide the belt off the easiest pulley (usually the alternator pulley) using your free hand.
• Tip: Keep your knuckles clear when releasing the tensioner.

Step 5: Remove the old belt

• Let the tensioner return slowly to its resting position using the 3/8" drive breaker bar.
• Pull the old belt out from around the remaining pulleys.
• Inspect the belt for cracks/glazing; this confirms replacement was needed.

Step 6: Inspect pulleys and tensioner

• Spin each accessible pulley by hand (engine OFF) and feel for roughness or wobble.
• If any pulley feels gritty or loose, stop here—an accessory bearing may be failing and can shred the new belt.

Step 7: Route the new belt

• Route the new belt around the pulleys following your photo/sticker, leaving the easiest pulley for last.
• Make sure the belt ribs sit fully in the ribbed pulley grooves (no “half-on” ribs).
• Tip: If it won’t slip on, it’s routed wrong.

Step 8: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Rotate the tensioner again using the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive breaker bar.
• Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Re-check every pulley: the belt must be centered and fully seated.

Step 9: Reinstall fender liner and wheel

• Reposition the fender liner and reinstall clips using the trim clip removal tool.
• Reinstall any fasteners using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts using the 3/8" drive breaker bar.
• Lower the vehicle and tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect battery and verify operation

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Start the engine and watch the belt for 15-30 seconds. It should run straight with no wobble.
• Listen for squeal/chirp; if you hear it, shut off and re-check belt seating.

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✅ After Repair

• Re-check belt alignment after a short 5-10 minute drive.
• If you hear squealing on A/C load or at startup, re-check routing and that the ribs are fully in the grooves.
• Inspect the area for any loose clips or liner rubbing the belt.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $125-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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