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2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL
2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL
V6 3.3L
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How To Remove And Replace A Serpentine Belt (Fan Belt), 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL 3.3L GDI - ep 88

How To Remove And Replace A Serpentine Belt (Fan Belt), 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL 3.3L GDI - ep 88

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL

Step-by-step belt routing, tensioner release, required tools/parts, and torque specs (97 ft-lbs lug nuts) for 2019

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe XL

Step-by-step belt routing, tensioner release, required tools/parts, and torque specs (97 ft-lbs lug nuts) for 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Santa Fe XL - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt is the single belt that drives accessories like the alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing it fixes belt squeal/cracks and prevents a sudden loss of charging or power steering assist.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧯 Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of pulleys.
  • 🛑 Never start the engine with hands/tools near the belt.
  • 🧰 Support your Santa Fe XL with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key/fob away from the vehicle to prevent accidental starts.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • Extensions (3/8" drive, 3" and 6")
  • Trim clip remover
  • 17mm socket
  • Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
  • Flashlight
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
  • Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: 4-10

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • 🧱 Chock the left rear wheel.
  • 🔦 Open the hood and use a flashlight to locate the belt routing sticker (often on the radiator support). If there’s no sticker, take a clear photo of the current belt routing before removal.
  • 🧠 Quick vocab: the automatic tensioner is the spring-loaded arm that keeps belt tension; the splash shield is the plastic panel inside the wheel well that blocks dirt/water.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the right-front corner

  • Place wheel chocks at the left rear wheel.
  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the right-front lug nuts 1 turn.
  • Lift the right-front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper jacking points.
  • Remove the wheel using the 21mm socket.
  • Reinstall lug nuts finger-tight to keep them together. Set the wheel flat under the rocker.

Step 2: Remove the right-front splash shield access

  • Use a trim clip remover to pop the plastic clips.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove any 10mm screws.
  • Pull the splash shield section back enough to see the belt and the tensioner pulley.

Step 3: Relieve belt tension

  • Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm with a smooth pulley).
  • Install a 17mm socket on the tensioner hex and use a 3/8" ratchet (or breaker bar if tight) to rotate the tensioner clockwise to release tension.
  • While holding tension released, slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach pulley (usually the alternator pulley) by hand.
  • Slowly let the tensioner return to rest. Don’t let it snap back.

Step 4: Remove the old belt and compare

  • Pull the belt out through the wheel well opening.
  • Compare the old and new belt length and rib count (they must match).
  • Spin each accessible pulley by hand and listen/feel for grinding or wobble.

Step 5: Route the new belt

  • Route the new belt exactly like the under-hood routing diagram (or your photo).
  • Make sure the ribbed side sits fully in the grooves of ribbed pulleys; smooth pulleys ride on the belt’s smooth side.
  • Leave one top pulley (commonly the alternator) for last so it’s easy to slip on.

Step 6: Apply tension and seat the belt

  • Use the 17mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to rotate the tensioner clockwise again.
  • Slip the belt onto the final pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
  • Visually check every pulley: the belt must be centered and fully seated in every groove.

Step 7: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

  • Reposition the splash shield and install screws using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Reinstall clips using a trim clip remover (and your fingers to push the pin in).
  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 132 Nm (97 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • 🔍 Before starting, do one last belt check with the flashlight to confirm it’s seated on every pulley.
  • 🚗 Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds while you watch the belt path (from a safe distance).
  • 🎧 Listen for chirping/squealing; if you hear it, shut off and re-check belt alignment.
  • 🧪 Turn on A/C and headlights; confirm the belt runs smoothly with load.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$235 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.


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