How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2018 Toyota Prius (Accessory Drive Belt)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips for hybrids, and belt routing checks
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2018 Toyota Prius (Accessory Drive Belt)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips for hybrids, and belt routing checks
🔧 Prius - Serpentine Belt Replacement
Your Prius uses a single accessory drive belt (often called the serpentine belt) to drive the engine’s belt-driven accessories. Replacing it prevents squealing, slipping, and loss of accessory operation due to belt cracking or stretching.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Hybrid system: keep hands/tools away from orange high-voltage cables.
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; hot parts can burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the Prius with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the belt path while releasing the tensioner.
- Disconnecting the 12V battery is not strictly required, but it’s recommended to prevent accidental starts while your hands are near rotating parts.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive breaker bar
- 14mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
- Work light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Belt tension gauge (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) - Qty: 1
- Plastic under-cover clips (assortment) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and remove the key fob from the vehicle area (keep it 10+ feet away).
- If you choose to disconnect power: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal in the rear hatch area. (Negative terminal is the “-” post.)
- Take a photo of belt routing first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front and remove the right-front wheel
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the right-front lug nuts 1/2 turn while the tire is on the ground.
- Lift the front-right with a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum), then place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under a safe support point and lower the car onto the stand.
- Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet, then remove the wheel.
- Reinstall later and Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 2: Remove the RH (passenger-side) fender liner access and lower splash shield
- Use a trim clip removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver to remove the plastic clips/screws from the lower splash shield area and the front portion of the right fender liner.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove any 10mm bolts holding the under-cover/liner (some fasteners vary).
- Pull the liner back just enough to see the belt and tensioner area.
Step 3: Locate the belt tensioner and relieve belt tension
- Locate the automatic belt tensioner (a spring-loaded arm with a pulley).
- Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet (or breaker bar for more leverage) on the tensioner hex.
- Rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension, then slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach pulley.
- Move slowly; spring tension is strong.
Step 4: Remove the old belt and compare to the new belt
- With tension released, remove the belt from all pulleys by hand.
- Compare belt length and rib count to the new belt before installing.
- Inspect pulleys for wobble or roughness by spinning them by hand (engine OFF).
Step 5: Route and install the new belt
- Route the new belt around the pulleys following the belt routing diagram (usually on the underside of the hood or in the service info). Use your phone photo as reference.
- Make sure the ribs sit fully in the pulley grooves; the belt must not ride on an edge.
- Use a 14mm socket with a ratchet to rotate the tensioner again, slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
Step 6: Verify belt alignment
- Use a work light to check every pulley: belt ribs centered, no twist, no missing grooves.
- If you have one, use a belt tension gauge (specialty) to confirm tension is in spec for an automatic tensioner system (you’re mainly confirming the tensioner isn’t weak).
- If it’s one rib off, fix it now.
Step 7: Reinstall splash shield/liner and wheel
- Reposition the liner and under-cover.
- Reinstall 10mm bolts using a 10mm socket and ratchet (snug them; do not over-tighten plastic).
- Reinstall plastic clips using a trim clip removal tool (and replace any broken clips).
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-start lug nuts, then snug with a 21mm socket.
- Lower the Prius off the jack stand using the floor jack.
- Use a torque wrench and 21mm socket to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Restore 12V battery connection (if disconnected)
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the 12V negative terminal.
- Make sure the terminal is fully seated and snug.
✅ After Repair
- Start the Prius and listen for squeal, chirp, or slapping sounds near the belt area.
- With the car in READY and parked, visually confirm the belt runs smoothly (do not put hands near moving parts).
- Recheck that all clips/fasteners are installed and the splash shield is not rubbing the belt.
- After a short drive, recheck belt alignment and look for any fresh rubber dust.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$65 (parts only)
You Save: $115-$325 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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