🔧 BRZ - Serpentine Belt Replacement

Your BRZ uses one accessory drive belt (often called a “serpentine belt”) to spin the alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing it is mainly about safely releasing the spring-loaded belt tensioner, slipping the old belt off, and routing the new belt correctly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Keep fingers and tools clear of pulleys while releasing the tensioner; it’s spring-loaded and can snap back.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; the radiator fans and hot parts can injure you.
• ⚠️ If you raise the car, support it with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine until the belt is fully seated on every pulley groove.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive breaker bar
• 3" extension (3/8" drive)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose clothing/jewelry.
• Pro tip: Take a quick photo of belt routing.
• If you want extra access from below: raise the front using a floor jack and set it on jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Get access to the belt

• Use a flashlight to locate the belt at the front of the engine.
• If working from underneath, remove the front under cover fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver.

Step 2: Locate the belt tensioner

• Find the spring-loaded tensioner pulley (this pulley keeps the belt tight automatically).
• Place a 14mm socket on the tensioner pulley bolt using a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3" extension if needed.

Step 3: Release belt tension

• Switch to a 3/8" drive breaker bar (a longer handle that gives more leverage).
• Use the 14mm socket and rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension, then hold it there.
• While holding the tensioner, slide the belt off the nearest easy pulley (usually the alternator pulley) by hand with work gloves on.
• Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position—do not let it snap back.

Step 4: Remove the old belt

• Pull the belt out from around the remaining pulleys by hand while wearing work gloves.
• Use a flashlight to inspect each pulley surface as the belt comes off.

Step 5: Inspect pulleys and belt path

• Spin each pulley by hand (engine OFF). They should spin smoothly and quietly.
• Look for wobble or grinding—if you feel roughness, the pulley/tensioner bearing may be failing.
• Wipe any dirt off pulley grooves using a clean rag (no special tool required).

Step 6: Route the new belt

• Compare the new belt to the old one (same length and rib count).
• Route the new belt around the pulleys following your photo, leaving the easiest pulley for last.
• Make sure the ribs sit perfectly in the grooved pulleys; the belt should not ride on an edge.

Step 7: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt fully onto the last pulley by hand (with work gloves).
• Slowly release the tensioner back into position.
• Use a flashlight to check every pulley: the belt must be centered and fully seated in the grooves.

Step 8: Reinstall covers (if removed)

• Reinstall the under cover using the trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver as needed to refit the clips.
• If the car is on jack stands, raise slightly with the floor jack, remove the stands, and lower the car safely.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 20-30 seconds.
• Listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping sounds; shut the engine off if you hear anything abnormal.
• Recheck belt seating with a flashlight after shutting the engine off.
• Pro tip: Recheck again after first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $125-$240 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.