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2018 Nissan Pathfinder
2013 - 2019 Nissan Pathfinder
V6 3.5L
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Engine drive Belt / Serpentine belt replacement Nissan Pathfinder 2013-2019  3.5L V6

Engine drive Belt / Serpentine belt replacement Nissan Pathfinder 2013-2019 3.5L V6

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2018 Nissan Pathfinder (Accessory Drive Belt)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and belt routing checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2018 Nissan Pathfinder (Accessory Drive Belt)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and belt routing checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Pathfinder - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (accessory drive belt) spins key accessories like the alternator and A/C compressor. If it’s cracked, glazed, noisy, or slipping, replacing it prevents charging issues and overheating.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧯 Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of pulleys.
  • 🧰 Support your Pathfinder with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
  • 🧱 Chock the rear wheels and keep the transmission in Park.
  • 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key away and don’t crank the engine during the job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 14mm combination wrench
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 6" extension (3/8" drive)
  • 10mm socket
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Work gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Flashlight

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Serpentine belt (accessory drive belt) - Qty: 1
  • Fender liner / splash shield push clips - Qty: 4-10

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • 📸 Find the belt routing diagram (usually under the hood or on the radiator support). Take a clear photo before removing the old belt.
  • 🧊 Let the engine cool completely so you don’t burn yourself on hot metal parts.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the right-front corner

  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to crack the right-front lug nuts loose (about 1/2 turn).
  • Lift at the right-front jack point using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Set the vehicle down securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 2: Remove the right-front wheel

  • Remove the lug nuts with the 21mm socket and take the wheel off.
  • Reinstall later and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Open access to the belt area

  • Remove the right-front inner fender liner access panel/splash shield fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Remove any small bolts with a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
  • Move the liner/panel aside so you can see the belt and tensioner.
  • “Tensioner” = spring-loaded belt tightener.

Step 4: Release belt tension

  • Locate the belt tensioner and the hex boss/bolt head used to rotate it.
  • Fit a 14mm socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 6" extension (3/8" drive) (or use a 14mm combination wrench if access is tight).
  • Rotate the tensioner smoothly to relieve tension, then slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach upper pulley.
  • Hold tensioner firmly; it snaps back hard.

Step 5: Remove the old belt and compare

  • Pull the belt out through the wheel-well opening.
  • Compare the old belt to the new belt (length and rib count) before installing.
  • If the old belt is shredded, inspect pulleys for stuck rubber or debris using a flashlight.

Step 6: Install the new belt (route it correctly)

  • Route the new belt exactly like the under-hood belt routing diagram you photographed.
  • Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits fully in the grooved pulleys, and the smooth side rides on smooth pulleys.
  • Leave the easiest-to-reach pulley for last (usually an upper smooth pulley).

Step 7: Re-apply tension and verify belt seating

  • Rotate the tensioner again using the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet (or 14mm combination wrench).
  • Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
  • Visually confirm the belt is centered on every pulley and fully seated in the grooves.

Step 8: Reassemble the wheel-well parts

  • Reinstall the splash shield/liner using the 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and trim clip removal tool.
  • Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Tighten lug nuts with the 21mm socket to Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • 🔍 Start the engine and watch the belt for 30-60 seconds; it should run straight with no wobble.
  • 👂 Listen for chirping/squealing. If you hear noise, shut it off and re-check belt routing and seating.
  • 🧪 Turn on A/C and headlights; confirm charging and A/C operation are normal.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $150-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.


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