🔧 86 - Serpentine Belt Replacement

Your 86 uses a single accessory (serpentine) belt to drive components like the alternator and A/C. Replacing it is mostly about safely relieving the spring-loaded belt tensioner, swapping the belt, and confirming the routing is correct.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Keep hands/clothes clear of the belt path and pulleys.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully; working near hot parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ If you raise the front of your 86, support it with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine until the belt is fully seated on every pulley.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Flashlight
• Trim clip removal tool
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" breaker bar
• 14mm box-end wrench
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Accessory drive belt (serpentine belt) - Qty: 1
• Replacement undertray clips - Qty: 2-10

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• If you’re new to belt routing: use your phone to take a clear photo of the belt path before removal. This prevents misrouting.
• Plan access: on your 86 it’s often easiest with the lower engine undertray removed for visibility.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front (if needed for access)

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the front center jack point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) at the approved front support points.
• Give the car a firm push to confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine undertray/splash shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop the plastic clips out without breaking them.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to remove the 10mm bolts.
• Set clips/bolts aside in a small tray so they don’t get lost.

Step 3: Locate the belt tensioner and confirm routing

• Use a flashlight to find the belt and each pulley.
• Take a final picture of the belt routing with your phone.
• Identify the spring-loaded tensioner pulley (this is what you’ll rotate to loosen the belt). A “tensioner” is a spring arm that keeps the belt tight automatically.

Step 4: Relieve tension and remove the old belt

• Fit a 14mm box-end wrench (or a serpentine belt tool (specialty)) onto the tensioner’s hex/bolt head.
• Slowly rotate the tensioner against the spring force to loosen the belt.
• While holding the tensioner rotated, slip the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner back to rest. Do not let it snap back.
• Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys and pull it out.

Step 5: Install the new belt (route it correctly)

• Compare old vs new belt length using your hands (same rib count and similar length).
• Route the new belt around all pulleys except one easy-to-reach pulley (leave that one for last).
• Make sure the belt ribs sit fully in the grooved pulleys—no “one rib off” misalignment.

Step 6: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Rotate the tensioner again using the 14mm box-end wrench (or serpentine belt tool (specialty)).
• Slip the belt onto the final pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner.
• Visually inspect every pulley with a flashlight to confirm the belt is centered and fully seated.

Step 7: Reinstall the undertray

• Reposition the undertray and start all fasteners by hand first.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Reinstall the clips using the trim clip removal tool to align them, then press them in.

Step 8: Lower the vehicle

• Lift slightly with the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum), remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum), then lower fully.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 30-60 seconds.
• Listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping noises (signs of misrouting or a belt not seated).
• Turn the A/C on and off and confirm the belt runs smoothly.
• Shut the engine off and re-check belt alignment with a flashlight.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$325 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Quick check so I keep this 100% accurate: Can you upload a photo of the front of the engine (belt/tensioner area) from above or below? I’ll confirm the exact tensioner “wrench point” on your 86 and the easiest pulley to slip the belt on/off.