🔧 Murano - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (also called the drive belt) runs your alternator, A/C compressor, and other accessories. Replacing it fixes squealing, cracking, or slipping and helps prevent a no-charge or overheating situation if the belt fails.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

Assumption: your Murano uses an automatic spring tensioner with a 14mm hex.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; hot pulleys and radiator fans can injure you.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands before going underneath; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the tensioner and pulleys; the spring force can snap back.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but keep tools away from the alternator electrical area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set (3" and 6")
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• Flat trim clip tool
• 14mm combination wrench
• Serpentine belt tool kit (specialty)
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Take a quick photo of the belt routing under the hood (or sketch it) so the new belt goes on the same way.
• Serpentine belt tool = a long, thin ratchet handle. It fits in tight spaces to move the tensioner.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the right-front corner for access

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the right-front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using the 21mm socket.
• Reinstall lug nuts later: Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Remove the right-front splash shield/inner liner (as needed)

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the small bolts along the lower/side edge of the liner.
• Use a flat trim clip tool to pop out the plastic clips (pry the center pin up first, then remove the clip).
• Pull the liner back enough to see the belt, tensioner, and crank pulley.

Step 3: Locate the belt tensioner and “unload” it

• Use a flashlight to find the automatic belt tensioner (a spring-loaded arm with a pulley).
• Place a 14mm combination wrench on the tensioner hex (or use the serpentine belt tool kit (specialty) if space is tight).
• Rotate the tensioner smoothly to relieve belt tension (steady pressure; don’t jerk it).
• Hold the wrench firmly; it can snap back.

Step 4: Remove the old belt

• While holding the tensioner rotated with the 14mm combination wrench, slip the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley (often the idler or alternator pulley).
• Slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position.
• Pull the belt out from around the remaining pulleys.

Step 5: Inspect pulleys and tensioner before installing the new belt

• Spin each pulley by hand and listen/feel for roughness or wobble.
• Check for oil/coolant leaks near the belt path (fluids ruin belts).
• If any pulley is noisy or loose, fix that first; a new belt won’t last.

Step 6: Route the new belt correctly

• Route the new belt around the pulleys following the under-hood routing diagram (or your photo).
• Make sure the belt ribs sit fully in the grooves of ribbed pulleys; smooth pulleys ride on the smooth back of the belt.
• Leave the easiest upper/outer pulley for last so you can slip it on when the tensioner is moved.
• If one rib is off, it will shred fast.

Step 7: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Use the 14mm combination wrench (or serpentine belt tool kit (specialty)) to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Use a flashlight to re-check every pulley: the belt must be centered and fully seated.

Step 8: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

• Reposition the liner and install clips using the flat trim clip tool.
• Install bolts using the 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet (snug; do not over-tighten plastic).
• Install the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using the 21mm socket: Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 30-60 seconds; it should run smoothly with no wandering.
• Listen for squealing or chirping; shut off and re-check belt seating if you hear noise.
• Turn A/C on and headlights on to load the belt; confirm the sound stays normal.
• Recheck the splash shield area for any loose clips/bolts after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $155-$290 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.