How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2016 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, belt routing notes, and torque specs for a smooth install for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2016 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, belt routing notes, and torque specs for a smooth install for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
đź”§ Altima - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives key accessories like the alternator and A/C. If it’s cracked, squealing, or slipping, replacing it prevents loss of charging and overheating issues on your Altima.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.75-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of pulleys/fans.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers out of pinch points when rotating the belt tensioner (it’s spring-loaded).
- ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required, but keep the key off and engine off the entire time.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- 21mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive ratchet
- 14mm socket
- 10mm socket
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flashlight
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lb range)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
- Lower splash shield clips (as needed) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and find the belt routing diagram (often on a sticker). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removal.
- Take a quick phone photo—saves headaches.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1 turn while the tire is still on the ground.
Step 2: Raise and support the right-front corner
- Lift the right-front with a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under a solid jacking/support point and lower the car onto the stands.
- Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (access panel)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips (a trim clip tool is a forked pry tool that removes push-clips without breaking them).
- Use a 10mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to remove any 10mm bolts holding the shield.
- Use a flashlight to clearly see the belt and tensioner area.
Step 4: Relieve belt tension using the automatic tensioner
- Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm with a pulley).
- Install a 14mm socket on the tensioner’s hex/bolt head.
- Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner to relieve tension, then hold it steady.
- Move it slowly—spring tension is strong.
Step 5: Slip the belt off one pulley and remove it
- While holding the tensioner rotated with the breaker bar, slide the belt off an easy-to-reach top pulley (commonly the alternator pulley) by hand.
- Slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position (do not let it snap back).
- Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys and take it out from below.
Step 6: Route the new belt (match the diagram)
- Compare the old and new belt length and rib count before installing.
- Route the new belt around the pulleys following the under-hood diagram.
- Make sure the ribbed side sits in grooved pulleys, and the smooth side runs on smooth pulleys.
- Each rib must sit perfectly in its groove.
Step 7: Apply tension and seat the belt fully
- Rotate the tensioner again using the 14mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
- Slip the belt over the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Use a flashlight to check the belt is centered on every pulley and not hanging off an edge.
Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield and wheel
- Reinstall the splash shield using the 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool (replace broken clips if needed).
- Reinstall the wheel and snug the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
- Lower the car, then use a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lb range) to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 30–60 seconds (from a safe distance).
- Listen for chirping/squealing; shut off immediately if the belt walks off a pulley.
- Turn A/C on and headlights on to confirm normal operation and no belt noise.
- Recheck belt alignment once more after a short 5–10 minute drive.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $150-$300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)
You Save: $125-$240 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.










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