🔧 Accent - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (also called the drive belt) spins key accessories like the alternator and A/C. Replacing a worn or cracked belt helps prevent squealing, charging problems, and sudden breakdowns.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

Assumption: your Accent uses an automatic spring tensioner (most do).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; belts and pulleys can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/clothing away from pulleys; pinch hazard.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you lift it; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine until tools are fully removed.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required, but it’s okay to disconnect the negative terminal if you want extra safety.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Plastic splash shield clips (assorted) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Take a quick photo or sketch of the belt routing before removal.
• If a routing sticker is under the hood, use it as your reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front-right corner (for access)

• Use wheel chocks to secure the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift at the front-right jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).

Step 2: Remove the front-right wheel

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar (1/2" drive) to loosen lug nuts (slightly) before lifting, if you haven’t already.
• With the car safely on stands, remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Remove the wheel.
• Reinstall lug nuts later and Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield/inner fender access panel

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips.
• Use a flathead screwdriver for any quarter-turn fasteners.
• Pull the panel back to expose the belt and pulleys.
• Tip: Save clips in a cup.

Step 4: Locate the automatic belt tensioner

• Use a flashlight to find the tensioner (a spring-loaded arm with a smooth pulley).
• The tensioner has a bolt head used to rotate it and release belt tension.
• A tensioner is a spring device that keeps belt tight.

Step 5: Relieve belt tension

• Install a 14mm socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet (or use the breaker bar if it’s tight).
• Rotate the tensioner slowly to release belt tension (steady pressure—don’t jerk it).
• While holding the tensioner rotated, slip the belt off the easiest-to-reach pulley (often the alternator or A/C pulley).
• Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position.

Step 6: Remove the old belt and compare lengths

• Pull the belt out of the remaining pulleys by hand.
• Lay the old belt next to the new belt and compare length and rib count.
• If the old belt is oil-soaked or heavily cracked, consider checking for leaks soon.

Step 7: Route the new belt on the pulleys

• Route the new belt to match your photo/sketch (or the under-hood routing sticker).
• Make sure the ribbed side sits in the grooved pulleys, and the smooth side rides on smooth pulleys.
• Leave one easy-to-reach pulley for last (so you can slip it on after releasing tensioner).
• Tip: Every rib must sit perfectly in grooves.

Step 8: Apply tension and install the belt fully

• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt onto the last pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner so it tightens the belt.

Step 9: Double-check alignment

• Use a flashlight and inspect every pulley.
• The belt must be centered and fully seated; no ribs hanging off an edge.
• Spin an accessible pulley by hand (carefully) to confirm the belt tracks straight.

Step 10: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

• Reinstall the panel using the trim clip removal tool (for clips) and flathead screwdriver (for fasteners).
• Reinstall the wheel using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.
• Lower the car with the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Use a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 30-60 seconds (from a safe distance).
• Listen for squeal, chirping, or slapping sounds; shut off immediately if the belt walks off a pulley.
• Turn A/C on and headlights on briefly; confirm no new noise.
• Recheck belt alignment after a short 5-10 minute drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $140-$280 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $20-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$220 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.