🔧 Fusion - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives accessories like the alternator and A/C. Replacing a worn or cracked belt helps prevent squealing, charging problems, and sudden belt failure.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a cool engine; hot pulleys and coolant parts can burn you.
• 🛑 Keep fingers/clothes clear of pulleys at all times.
• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Do not start the engine until the belt is fully routed and tools are removed.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required, but remove the key and keep it away.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet (1/4")
• Ratchet (3/8")
• 15mm socket
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Trim clip remover
• Flashlight
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Fender liner/splash shield clips - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Take a picture of the belt routing (or draw it). This is your “map” for reinstallation.
• 🧰 A “tensioner” is a spring-loaded arm that keeps belt tension automatically; you rotate it to remove/install the belt.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front passenger side

• Use wheel chocks to secure the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front passenger-side jacking point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give the car a gentle push to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the front passenger wheel

• Use a 21mm socket with a breaker bar (1/2") to loosen the lug nuts, then remove them.
• Remove the wheel and set it flat under the car as an extra safety backup.
• Reinstall later and Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Remove the splash shield/fender liner section for access

• Use a trim clip remover to pop out the plastic push clips.
• Use an 8mm socket and 10mm socket with a ratchet (1/4") to remove small screws/bolts holding the shield/liner.
• Pull the liner back enough to clearly see the belt and pulleys. Use a flashlight to confirm routing.

Step 4: Locate the belt tensioner

• Find the spring-loaded tensioner pulley on the front of the engine (visible through the wheel well opening).
• Fit a 15mm socket on the tensioner arm bolt head.
• If space is tight, use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) (a thin, long handle made for this job).

Step 5: Release tension and remove the old belt

• Rotate the tensioner using the 15mm socket and a ratchet (3/8") (or serpentine belt tool (specialty)) to relieve belt tension.
• While holding the tensioner rotated, slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley (often the alternator or an idler).
• Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position. Do not let it snap back.
• Remove the belt fully from all pulleys and take it out through the wheel well.

Step 6: Check pulleys before installing the new belt

• Spin each pulley by hand (engine OFF). It should spin smoothly and quietly.
• Look for wobble, grinding noise, or oily residue. Oil on the belt area needs fixing first.

Step 7: Route the new belt (leave one pulley for last)

• Route the new belt around the pulleys following your picture/diagram.
• Make sure the belt ribs sit perfectly in the ribbed pulleys; the belt must not ride on the edge.
• Leave the most accessible pulley for last (the one you’ll slip the belt onto while the tensioner is released).

Step 8: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Rotate the tensioner again using the 15mm socket and ratchet (3/8") (or serpentine belt tool (specialty)).
• Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Double-check every pulley: the belt must be centered and fully seated in the grooves.

Step 9: Reinstall splash shield/fender liner and wheel

• Reposition the liner and reinstall fasteners using the 8mm socket and 10mm socket with a ratchet (1/4").
• Reinstall push clips with the trim clip remover as needed.
• Reinstall the wheel and snug lug nuts using the 21mm socket.
• Lower the car, then Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range).

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✅ After Repair

• 🔎 Before starting, do a final visual check that no tools are in the engine bay and the belt is seated on every pulley.
• 🔎 Start the engine and watch the belt for 20-30 seconds; it should run smoothly with no hopping or wandering.
• 🔎 Listen for squeal or slapping noises. If present, shut off and re-check routing and belt seating.
• 🔎 Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive. Quick safety habit worth building.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$325 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.