How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2016 Acura ILX (Drive Belt Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, belt routing tips, safety checks, and lug nut torque specs
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2016 Acura ILX (Drive Belt Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, belt routing tips, safety checks, and lug nut torque specs


🔧 ILX - Serpentine Belt Replacement
Your ILX uses one drive belt (often called the serpentine belt) to run accessories like the alternator and A/C. Replacing it is mostly about safely releasing the automatic belt tensioner, swapping the belt, and confirming the new belt is routed correctly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
Assumption: Factory accessory belt with automatic tensioner.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of pulleys.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
- ⚠️ Do not start the engine with fingers/tools near the belt path.
- ⚠️ If you remove the wheel, torque the lug nuts correctly after.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 14mm box-end wrench
- Serpentine belt tool with 14mm socket (specialty)
- Trim clip remover tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Flashlight
- Torque wrench (20-150 Nm range)
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
- Engine under-cover / splash shield clips - Qty: 1 set (as needed)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
- Open the hood and use a flashlight to locate the belt and tensioner.
- If you have a belt routing sticker, take a clear photo for reference.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift the right-front corner (for access)
- Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the right-front lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
- Use a floor jack to lift the right-front jacking point.
- Set the car onto jack stands and give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
- Remove the wheel using the 19mm socket.
- Reinstall lug nuts later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 2: Remove the splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip remover tool to pop out plastic clips. (A trim clip remover is a forked tool that pulls push-clips without breaking them.)
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver as needed for stubborn clips.
- Fold the splash shield back enough to clearly see the belt and tensioner.
Step 3: Confirm the belt routing
- Use a flashlight to trace the belt around each pulley.
- Take a photo or draw a quick sketch. This prevents misrouting later.
Step 4: Release tension from the automatic tensioner
- Place a 14mm box-end wrench (or serpentine belt tool with 14mm socket (specialty)) onto the tensioner’s hex.
- Slowly rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension. (The tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.)
- While holding the tensioner back, slip the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley.
- Carefully let the tensioner return to its resting position—do not let it snap back.
Step 5: Remove the old belt
- Pull the belt out through the wheel well opening by hand.
- Spin each pulley by hand (no tools) and listen/feel for roughness or wobble.
Step 6: Install the new belt
- Route the new belt according to your photo/sketch, leaving one easy pulley for last.
- Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in the ribbed pulley grooves, centered.
- Use the 14mm box-end wrench or serpentine belt tool with 14mm socket (specialty) to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Use a flashlight to verify the belt is fully seated on every pulley.
Step 7: Reassemble
- Reinstall the splash shield using the trim clip remover tool and any replacement clips by hand.
- Reinstall the wheel using the 19mm socket.
- Lower the car with the floor jack, then use a torque wrench (20-150 Nm range) to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle while watching the belt for 15-30 seconds. It should run straight with no wobble.
- Listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping noises; shut off immediately if you hear anything abnormal.
- After a short 5-10 minute drive, recheck belt alignment with a flashlight.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹4,000-₹9,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹900-₹2,500 (parts only)
You Save: ₹3,100-₹6,500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















