🔧 Durango - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives accessories like the alternator, water pump, and A/C. On your Durango, you’ll release the automatic belt tensioner, slip the old belt off, then route and install the new belt.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a cold engine to avoid burns from hot coolant pipes and pulleys.
• 🛑 Keep fingers and tools away from pulleys; the tensioner can snap back hard.
• 🛑 If lifting the vehicle, support it with jack stands before going into the wheel well.
• 🛑 Do not start the engine until the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive breaker bar
• 15mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive extension set (3"-6")
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Tire iron or 22mm lug socket
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Let the engine cool fully.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (often on a sticker in the engine bay). If you don’t see one, take a clear photo of the current belt routing before removal.
• If you need more access, plan to remove the right-front wheel and the inner splash shield.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Create access to the belt area

• Remove the engine cover by pulling upward firmly with both hands.
• If access is tight from above, lift the right-front corner using a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove the right-front wheel using a tire iron or 22mm lug socket.
• Remove the right-front inner splash shield fasteners using a 10mm socket and trim clip remover, then pull the shield back for access.

Step 2: Locate the belt tensioner

• Use a work light and find the automatic belt tensioner (it’s the spring-loaded arm with a pulley). The “tensioner” is the part that keeps the belt tight automatically.
• Identify the hex on the tensioner (commonly the pulley bolt head) where you’ll place your tool.

Step 3: Release belt tension

• Install a 15mm socket on a 3/8" breaker bar (use a 3/8" extension if needed).
• Rotate the tensioner smoothly to relieve belt tension, then hold it in the released position.
• Move slowly—tensioners snap back hard.

Step 4: Remove the old serpentine belt

• While holding the tensioner released with the breaker bar, slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley (often an idler or the alternator pulley).
• Carefully let the tensioner return to its resting position.
• Pull the belt out of the engine bay (or out through the wheel well) and compare length and rib count to the new belt.

Step 5: Route the new belt

• Route the new belt around the pulleys following the belt routing diagram you photographed or found under the hood.
• Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in the grooved pulleys, and the smooth side rides on smooth pulleys.
• Leave one easy pulley for last (a smooth idler is usually easiest).

Step 6: Reapply tension and seat the belt

• Rotate the tensioner again using the 15mm socket and 3/8" breaker bar.
• Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Inspect every pulley with your work light and confirm the belt ribs are fully seated in the grooves.

Step 7: Reinstall shields and wheel (if removed)

• Reinstall the inner splash shield using the 10mm socket and trim clip remover.
• Reinstall the wheel using a tire iron or 22mm lug socket.
• Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it straight down until it seats.

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✅ After Repair

• Before starting, do a final visual check that the belt is centered on every pulley.
• Start the engine and watch the belt for 20-30 seconds (keep hands clear). It should run smoothly with no wobble or chirping.
• If you hear squealing or see the belt walking off a pulley, shut the engine off and re-check routing and seating.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$210 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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