How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2015 Subaru Impreza (Accessory Drive Belt)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, belt routing tips, safety checks, and post-install inspection for 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2015 Subaru Impreza (Accessory Drive Belt)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, belt routing tips, safety checks, and post-install inspection for 2015, 2016
🔧 Impreza - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt (also called the accessory drive belt) runs your alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing it restores proper grip and prevents squealing, charging issues, or a sudden belt break.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
Assumption: your Impreza uses the common single-belt setup with A/C.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; belts and pulleys can burn you.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers, hair, and loose clothing away from pulleys.
- ⚠️ Do not start the engine while your hands are near the belt.
- 🔋 Optional but safer: disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive breaker bar
- 14mm socket
- 6" socket extension (3/8" drive)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flashlight
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
- Accessory belt tensioner - Qty: 1 (optional, if noisy/weak)
- Accessory belt idler pulley - Qty: 1 (optional, if noisy/rough)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and open the hood.
- Use a flashlight to find the belt routing diagram (often on a radiator support sticker). If you don’t see one, take a clear photo of the current belt path before removal.
- Let the engine cool fully.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Get access to the front of the engine
- If the air intake snorkel or ducting is in the way, remove its clips/fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and/or a 10mm socket.
- Set parts aside where they won’t fall into the engine bay.
Step 2: Locate the belt tensioner
- Find the automatic belt tensioner (a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight). It will have a pulley touching the belt.
- Identify the bolt head you will turn to relieve tension (commonly a 14mm socket point on the tensioner/pulley area).
Step 3: Release belt tension
- Install a 14mm socket on a 3/8" drive breaker bar (use a 6" extension if needed for reach).
- Rotate the tensioner smoothly to unload the belt (you are fighting a strong spring).
- Tip: Move slowly; don’t let it snap back.
Step 4: Remove the old belt
- While holding the tensioner rotated, slide the belt off one easy-to-reach pulley (often the alternator pulley up top).
- Slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position.
- Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys and pull it out.
Step 5: Check pulleys before installing the new belt
- With the belt off, spin each pulley by hand (alternator, idler, tensioner pulley, A/C).
- If any pulley feels rough, wobbly, or noisy, plan to replace that pulley/tensioner.
Step 6: Route the new belt
- Route the new belt around the pulleys following the under-hood routing diagram (or your photo).
- Make sure the belt ribs sit fully inside the grooved pulleys, and the belt sits centered on any smooth pulleys.
- Tip: Leave the easiest top pulley for last.
Step 7: Apply tension and finish installation
- Use the 14mm socket and breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Double-check belt alignment on every pulley using a flashlight.
Step 8: Reinstall any removed covers/ducting
- Reinstall intake ducting/snorkel using the 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool (for clips).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and watch the belt for 15-30 seconds. It should run smoothly with no hopping or wandering.
- Listen for squeal or chirping. If you hear noise, shut off the engine and re-check belt alignment.
- Turn A/C on and headlights on briefly to confirm normal operation (no slipping noises).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $150-$280 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)
You Save: $125-$220 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















