🔧 Serpentine Belt - Replacement

The accessory drive belt on your S60 powers the alternator, A/C compressor, and other engine accessories. Replacing it is straightforward, but belt routing and access can be tight on this engine, so keep the old belt routing in mind before removal.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Let the engine cool fully before starting. The belt area is close to hot pulleys and brackets.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable if you need extra clearance around wiring near the belt path.
• Keep fingers clear of the tensioner spring path. It can snap back fast.
• Do not start the engine with tools near the belt drive.
• If the belt was shredded, inspect every pulley before installing the new belt.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive breaker bar
• Torx T25 screwdriver
• Torx T30 screwdriver
• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Belt routing diagram or camera
• Flashlight
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Accessory drive belt tensioner - Qty: 1 if worn or noisy
• Idler pulley - Qty: 1 if rough or noisy
• Front lower splash shield clips - Qty: 1 set if damaged

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool.
• Open the hood and locate the belt route before removing anything. Take a photo first.
• If the splash shield blocks access, raise the front safely and support it with jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Gain access to the belt drive

• Use a trim clip removal tool, 8mm socket, and Torx T25 screwdriver to remove the lower splash shield or front undertray if it blocks the accessory belt area.
• Set the fasteners aside in order so they go back in the same locations.
• Keep every clip organized.

Step 2: Find the belt routing

• Use a flashlight to inspect the current belt path around the pulleys.
• Take a clear photo of the belt routing before removal.
• If the old belt is missing or shredded, follow the underhood belt routing label if present, or trace the pulley path carefully before installing the new belt.

Step 3: Release tension from the belt

• Use a 3/8-inch drive breaker bar or 3/8-inch drive ratchet on the belt tensioner.
• Rotate the tensioner slowly in the direction that removes belt tension.
• Hold the tensioner steady and slip the belt off one easy-to-reach pulley.
• Move the tensioner smoothly.

Step 4: Remove the old belt

• Slide the belt off the remaining pulleys and lift it out of the engine bay.
• Compare the old belt length and rib count to the new one before installation.
• If the belt is cracked, glazed, or frayed, replace it and inspect the pulleys for damage.

Step 5: Inspect pulleys and tensioner

• Use your hand to spin each accessible pulley. It should turn smoothly and quietly.
• Check the tensioner arm for smooth movement and strong spring tension.
• If a pulley feels rough, noisy, or wobbly, replace it before installing the new belt.
• No rough spin means good.

Step 6: Install the new belt

• Route the new serpentine belt around the pulleys in the same path as the old belt.
• Leave the easiest-to-reach pulley for last so you can slip the belt on while the tensioner is released.
• Use the 3/8-inch drive breaker bar or 3/8-inch drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt fully onto the last pulley and slowly release the tensioner.

Step 7: Verify belt seating

• Use a flashlight to check every pulley groove.
• Make sure each rib on the belt is centered in the pulley grooves and not riding on the edge.
• Rotate the engine by hand only if needed and only with the proper tool access removed and the engine off.

Step 8: Reinstall covers and fasteners

• Reinstall the splash shield using the 8mm socket and Torx T25 screwdriver.
• Replace any broken clips with new ones.
• Torque to manufacturer specification for undertray fasteners if a published spec is available for your fastener set.

Step 9: Start and inspect

• Start the engine and listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping noises.
• Watch the belt for a few seconds to confirm it tracks straight on every pulley.
• Shut the engine off immediately if the belt walks off-center or makes noise.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck belt alignment after a short test drive.
• Look for any signs of rubbing or dust near the pulley area.
• If the old belt failed from another problem, scan for charging or accessory system faults.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$480 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $185-$340 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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