🔧 Outback - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (also called the accessory drive belt) spins key accessories like the alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing a cracked, noisy, or glazed belt helps prevent a breakdown and charging or overheating issues.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cold engine; belts and pulleys can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers, hair, and clothing away from pulleys at all times.
• ⚠️ Support the Outback on jack stands if you lift it; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ If your hands will be near the starter/alternator wiring, disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set (3", 6")
• 14mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Serpentine belt tool (low-profile) (specialty)
• Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt (accessory drive belt) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (usually on a radiator support/under-hood label). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removing the belt.
• If you plan to access from the wheel well: chock the rear wheels, then lift the right-front and support with jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Create access to the belt area

• Remove the engine cover (if equipped) by lifting it straight up by hand; it’s held by rubber grommets.
• If you need more room, remove the front intake snorkel/duct using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver (for any hose clamp style fasteners).
• Tip: Take a quick routing photo now.

Step 2: (Optional) Open the right-front wheel well for extra access

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Lift the right-front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the small access portion of the splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver.

Step 3: Relieve tension with the automatic belt tensioner

• Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm with a smooth pulley). An “automatic tensioner” keeps the belt tight by spring force.
• Fit a 14mm socket or 15mm socket (whichever matches your tensioner bolt head) onto a 3/8" drive ratchet (or use a serpentine belt tool (low-profile) (specialty) for tight space).
• Rotate the tensioner smoothly to relieve belt tension, then slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley with your free hand.
• Tip: Move slowly—spring tension is strong.

Step 4: Remove the old belt and inspect pulleys

• With tension released, remove the belt from all pulleys by hand.
• Spin the idler/tensioner pulleys by hand and listen/feel for grinding or wobble.
• If a pulley is noisy or loose, stop here and tell me what you found—those parts may need replacement before installing the new belt.

Step 5: Route the new belt correctly

• Compare the new belt length and rib count to the old one.
• Route the belt following the under-hood routing diagram (or your photo): make sure the ribbed side sits in the grooved pulleys, and the smooth side rides on smooth pulleys.
• Leave the belt off one easy-to-reach smooth pulley for last (this makes install easier).
• Tip: Misrouting can shred a new belt fast.

Step 6: Re-apply tension and seat the belt

• Use the 14mm socket or 15mm socket with the 3/8" drive ratchet (or serpentine belt tool (low-profile) (specialty)) to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slide the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner to apply tension.
• Visually check every pulley: the belt ribs must be fully seated in each grooved pulley track.

Step 7: Reinstall removed covers/ducting

• Reinstall the intake snorkel/duct using the 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
• Reinstall splash shield clips using the trim clip removal tool.
• If lifted, lower the Outback using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) after removing jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt track for 30-60 seconds (keep hands clear).
• Listen for chirping/squealing; if present, shut off and re-check belt seating and routing.
• Turn A/C on and headlights on to load the belt system and confirm smooth operation.
• Recheck the belt visually after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$285 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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