🔧 Cherokee - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives accessories like the alternator and A/C. On your Cherokee, you release belt tension with the spring-loaded tensioner, route the new belt correctly, and then reassemble the wheel-well access panels.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

Assumption: Belt access is through the right-front wheel well.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/clothes away from pulleys; the tensioner snaps back hard.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool; the belt area is close to hot components.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required, but keep the key away from the vehicle so nobody starts it.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 15mm socket
• 3" socket extension
• 8mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Plastic splash-shield push clips - Qty: 2-6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram sticker (often on the radiator support/under-hood area). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removal.
• Lay out your tools and a work light; most of the job is done from the passenger-side front wheel well.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.
• Break them loose now; it’s safer.

Step 2: Lift and support the front-right corner

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the proper front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the proper support point and lower the vehicle onto the stands.
• Keep wheel chocks on the rear wheels.

Step 3: Remove the right-front wheel

• Use a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 4: Remove the splash shield/inner fender access

• Use an 8mm socket to remove any small screws holding the splash shield/inner fender section.
• Use a trim clip removal tool (a forked tool that pops plastic clips out) and/or a flathead screwdriver to remove push clips.
• Pull the shield back enough to clearly see the belt, tensioner, and pulleys.

Step 5: Relieve belt tension at the tensioner

• Install a 15mm socket with a 3" socket extension on the belt tensioner bolt head.
• Use a 1/2" drive breaker bar or 1/2" drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner to release tension (the tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight).
• Hold the tensioner in the released position and slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley (often the alternator pulley is easiest to slip on/off last).
• Slowly let the tensioner return to rest. Do not let it snap back.

Step 6: Remove the old belt and inspect pulleys

• Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys by hand.
• Use a work light to inspect each pulley for wobble, cracks, or rough/gritty spinning.
• If a pulley feels rough or noisy, that component may need replacement before the new belt goes on.

Step 7: Route the new belt

• Route the new belt around the pulleys following the under-hood routing diagram.
• Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in the grooves of ribbed pulleys, and the smooth side rides on smooth pulleys.
• Leave the easiest pulley for last (commonly the alternator) so you have room to slip it on.
• Every rib must sit perfectly in grooves.

Step 8: Reapply tension and seat the belt

• Use a 15mm socket, 3" socket extension, and 1/2" drive breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt fully onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Use the work light to double-check the belt is centered on every pulley and fully seated.

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield/inner fender

• Reposition the shield.
• Reinstall screws using the 8mm socket.
• Reinstall push clips using the trim clip removal tool and/or press them in by hand.

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Install the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Snug the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet in a star pattern.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Final-tighten the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds while you watch the belt track (keep hands clear).
• Listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping noises; shut off immediately if the belt walks off a pulley.
• After a short test drive, recheck that the belt still sits centered on all pulleys.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $125-$240 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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