🔧 Cherokee - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives key accessories like the alternator and A/C. If it’s cracked, noisy, or slipping, replacing it prevents sudden loss of charging or overheating.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; belts and pulleys can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/hair/clothing away from rotating parts.
• ⚠️ Support your Cherokee with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine with hands near the belt.
• Disconnecting the battery is not required, but keep the key away from the vehicle while working.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 3" socket extension (1/2" drive)
• 15mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Trim clip removal tool
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and take a clear photo of the belt routing (how it wraps around each pulley). This saves a lot of frustration.
• Have a flashlight ready—belt routing is easier to verify with good light.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift the right-front corner for access

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to slightly loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts (do not remove yet).
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the right-front corner at the proper lift point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under a safe support point and lower the vehicle onto the stands.
• Remove the wheel using the 19mm socket and 1/2" ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the inner splash shield/liner (belt access)

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic push-clips (a push-clip is a plastic fastener that “snaps” into a hole).
• Use a 10mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove any small bolts/screws holding the liner edge.
• Pull the liner back enough to see the belt, tensioner, and pulleys. Use a flashlight to confirm you can reach the tensioner.

Step 3: Release belt tension

• Install a 15mm socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar (or 1/2" drive ratchet) onto the belt tensioner bolt head.
• Rotate the tensioner to relieve tension (you’ll feel the spring load). Hold it steadily—don’t let it snap back.
• While holding the tensioner, slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley.

Step 4: Remove the old belt and inspect pulleys

• Remove the belt completely by hand and compare it to the new belt (length and rib count should match).
• Spin the pulleys by hand and look for wobble or rough/grindy feel.
• If a pulley is noisy/rough, stop and address that before installing the new belt. A bad pulley can shred a new belt.

Step 5: Route the new belt

• Route the new belt following the under-hood routing diagram (or the photo you took). Use a flashlight to confirm each rib sits in the grooves.
• Leave one easy pulley for last (usually a smooth idler or alternator area) so you can slip it on after releasing the tensioner.
• Double-check: the belt ribs must be fully seated on every ribbed pulley (no “half-on” ribs).

Step 6: Apply tension and finish belt install

• Use the 15mm socket with the 1/2" breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt onto the final pulley, then slowly release the tensioner back onto the belt.
• Visually confirm the belt is centered on every pulley.

Step 7: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

• Reposition the liner and reinstall fasteners using the 10mm socket and 1/2" ratchet.
• Reinstall push-clips using the trim clip removal tool (press them in until fully seated).
• Reinstall the wheel using the 19mm socket and 1/2" ratchet.
• Lower the Cherokee off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range): Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt track on the pulleys (keep hands/tools away).
• Listen for chirping/squealing. If you hear it, shut off and re-check belt routing and seating.
• Take a short test drive, then re-check for any new noises.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$80 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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