🔧 Regal - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt runs your alternator and other accessories. If it’s cracked, noisy, or slipping, replacing it prevents charging problems and breakdowns.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before working near the belt drive.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/clothing clear of pulleys at all times.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine until all tools are out of the bay.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key/fob away to prevent accidental start.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" breaker bar
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Torx T15 driver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Serpentine belt tool set (specialty)
• Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• 🧰 Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (usually on the radiator support/underhood label). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removal.
• 🧰 Plan access: on your Regal, belt service is typically easiest through the right-front wheel well.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the right-front wheel

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Break loose the lug nuts slightly with a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Lift the right-front corner using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket.
• Reinstall torque later: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Remove the right-front inner fender/splash shield (for belt access)

• Use a work light to see the plastic fasteners clearly.
• Remove small screws/bolts using a 7mm socket and 10mm socket (varies by fastener location).
• Remove any Torx screws using a Torx T15 driver.
• Pry plastic push-clips out using a trim clip removal tool. Work gently to avoid breaking clips.
• Fold the shield back or remove it to expose the belt, tensioner, and pulleys.

Step 3: Confirm belt routing

• Use your phone to take a photo of the belt routing from the wheel well view.
• Look for the smooth pulleys (idler/tensioner) vs grooved pulleys (crank/alternator). The ribbed side of the belt runs on grooved pulleys.

Step 4: Relieve belt tension

• Locate the automatic belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm with a pulley).
• Use a serpentine belt tool set (specialty) (a long, thin handle designed to reach the tensioner in tight spaces) or a 3/8" breaker bar in the tensioner’s square drive.
• Rotate the tensioner to unload the belt:
  • If the tensioner moves smoothly one way and resists the other, use the smooth direction.
  • Common movement is either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on bracket design—do not force it.
• Hold the tensioner in the released position and slide the belt off the easiest top pulley (often the alternator) by hand with mechanic gloves.

Step 5: Remove the old belt

• Slowly release the tensioner back to rest using the serpentine belt tool set (specialty) or 3/8" breaker bar. Never let it snap back.
• Remove the belt completely and compare length/width to the new belt.

Step 6: Inspect pulleys and tensioner

• Spin each pulley by hand (engine OFF). They should spin smoothly and quietly.
• Check the tensioner pulley for wobble and roughness. If it feels gritty or loose, the tensioner/idler likely needs replacement (separate repair).

Step 7: Install the new belt

• Route the new belt following the underhood routing diagram (or your photo).
• Leave the easiest pulley for last (usually a smooth idler or the alternator).
• Use the serpentine belt tool set (specialty) or 3/8" breaker bar to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt onto the final pulley.
• Double-check that every rib is seated in every grooved pulley (no ribs hanging off). Use a work light to confirm alignment.

Step 8: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

• Reinstall the splash shield fasteners using a 7mm socket, 10mm socket, Torx T15 driver, and trim clip removal tool as needed.
• Install the wheel and hand-start lug nuts.
• Lower the car and tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench (20-200 Nm range): Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Start the engine and watch the belt for 20–30 seconds. It should run centered with no hopping.
• 🧪 Listen for squeal/chirp. If you hear noise, shut off and re-check belt seating on every grooved pulley.
• 🧪 Take a short test drive, then do one more quick visual check through the wheel well.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$265 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.