🔧 Encore - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt is the single long belt that drives accessories like the alternator and A/C. If it’s cracked, squealing, or slipping, replacing it prevents charging problems and overheating.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: Access is through the right-front wheel well, typical on your Encore.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands, not just a jack.
• 🧤 Keep fingers clear of the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm) while releasing tension.
• 🔥 Let the engine cool fully; the belt area is close to hot parts.
• 🔑 Key off and keep the key away so nobody starts the engine during the job.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair (unless you’ll be near exposed wiring).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)
• 15mm socket
• 7mm socket
• Torx T15 driver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
• Fender liner push clips - Qty: 2-6

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (usually a sticker near the radiator support). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removal.
• Turn the steering wheel slightly left to improve access at the right-front wheel well.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the Encore

• Use a floor jack at the right-front jack point to raise the vehicle.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands and gently test stability before working.

Step 3: Remove the right-front wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the right-front fender liner (splash shield) section

• Use a 7mm socket to remove any small screws along the liner edge.
• Use a Torx T15 driver for any Torx screws (some liners use a mix of fasteners).
• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic push clips without breaking them.
• Pull the liner back just enough to clearly see the belt and tensioner.
• Tip: Put screws/clips in a cup.

Step 5: Locate the belt tensioner and relieve belt tension

• Find the belt tensioner (a spring-loaded pulley arm that keeps the belt tight).
• Install a 15mm socket on the tensioner bolt and use a 1/2" breaker bar to rotate the tensioner to release tension.
• While holding the tensioner rotated, use your other hand to slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach pulley (often the alternator or an idler pulley).
• Slowly release the tensioner back to its rest position (don’t let it snap back).

Step 6: Remove the old belt and compare to the new belt

• Pull the belt out through the wheel well opening.
• Compare the old belt to the new belt (length and rib count should match).
• Use a flashlight to inspect pulleys for wobble, cracks, or rough bearings (spin each pulley by hand).

Step 7: Route the new belt onto the pulleys

• Route the new belt using the under-hood routing diagram.
• Make sure the belt ribs sit perfectly in the grooved pulleys and the belt is centered on smooth pulleys.
• Leave one easy pulley for last (the one you’ll slip on while the tensioner is released).
• Tip: One rib off will shred the belt.

Step 8: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Use a 15mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt fully onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Double-check belt alignment on every pulley with a flashlight.

Step 9: Reinstall the fender liner

• Reposition the liner and reinstall screws using a 7mm socket and/or Torx T15 driver.
• Reinstall push clips using the trim clip removal tool (and replace any broken clips).

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts

• Install the wheel and snug the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and watch the belt for 30-60 seconds. It should run smooth with no hopping.
• Listen for squealing or slapping sounds. If you hear it, shut the engine off and re-check routing and seating.
• Turn A/C on and headlights on briefly to add load; belt should still run smoothly.
• After a short test drive, re-check for any loose liner fasteners and confirm there’s no rubbing noise.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.