How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, belt routing tips, safety checks, and lug nut torque for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, belt routing tips, safety checks, and lug nut torque for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives important accessories on your Altima, including the alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing it is a good DIY job, but access is tight because the belt is reached mainly through the passenger-side front wheel well.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 45 minutes-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only with the engine completely cool to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable so the engine cannot be accidentally started.
- ⚠️ Support your Altima with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of pulleys and the belt tensioner. A tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
- ⚠️ Confirm the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove before starting the engine.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 21mm lug nut socket
- 14mm box-end wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive extension 6-inch
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Fender liner push clips - Qty: As needed
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move the cable away from the battery post.
- 💡 Take a clear photo of the old belt routing before removal. This helps if the routing sticker is missing.
- 🔍 Inspect the belt tensioner and pulleys. If any pulley wobbles, grinds, or feels rough, replace that part before installing the new belt.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Passenger Front Wheel
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker-style pressure from your ratchet to loosen the passenger front lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen lugs before lifting.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front Passenger Side
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the proper front pinch weld or front jacking point.
- Place a jack stand rated 2-ton minimum under the passenger-side support point.
- Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stand and gently shake the car to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Passenger Front Wheel
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the passenger front wheel and set it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Remove the Inner Fender Splash Shield Access
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic push clips from the passenger-side inner fender liner.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver only if needed to gently lift stubborn clip centers.
- Pull the liner back far enough to see the crank pulley and belt path.
- A push clip is a plastic fastener with a center pin that expands to hold panels in place.
- Work slowly; clips break easily.
Step 5: Locate the Belt Tensioner
- Use a flashlight to look at the belt path from the wheel well.
- Find the spring-loaded belt tensioner pulley. It is the pulley that moves when pressure is applied to its arm.
- On the 2.5L Altima, the serpentine belt runs around the crankshaft pulley, alternator pulley, A/C compressor pulley, water pump pulley, and tensioner/idler pulleys.
Step 6: Release Belt Tension
- Place a 14mm box-end wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt.
- Rotate the tensioner slowly to relieve belt tension.
- While holding the tensioner released, slide the belt off the easiest smooth pulley first.
- Carefully let the tensioner return to its resting position. Do not let it snap back.
- Spring tension is strong.
Step 7: Remove the Old Belt
- Use your hands to pull the old belt out through the wheel well opening.
- Compare the old belt to the new serpentine drive belt.
- The new belt should match the old belt in width, rib count, and overall length.
Step 8: Inspect Pulleys Before Installing the New Belt
- Use your hand to spin each accessible pulley.
- Listen and feel for grinding, roughness, looseness, or wobble.
- Use a flashlight to check that the pulley grooves are clean and not packed with rubber dust.
- If a pulley is rough or loose, do not install the new belt until that pulley problem is fixed.
Step 9: Route the New Belt
- Use your belt routing photo or the under-hood belt diagram as your guide.
- Route the ribbed side of the belt into grooved pulleys.
- Route the smooth back side of the belt against smooth pulleys.
- Leave the easiest smooth pulley for last so the belt can slip on while the tensioner is released.
- Grooves must fully line up.
Step 10: Seat the Belt Using the Tensioner
- Use the 14mm box-end wrench to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slide the belt over the final pulley.
- Slowly release the tensioner until it applies pressure to the new belt.
- Use a flashlight to check every pulley. The belt ribs must sit inside the pulley grooves, not on top of the outer edge.
Step 11: Reinstall the Inner Fender Liner
- Push the fender liner back into place by hand.
- Use the trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic push clips.
- Replace any broken fender liner push clips with new ones.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheel
- Install the passenger front wheel by hand.
- Thread each lug nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stand.
- Remove the jack stand.
- Lower your Altima fully to the ground.
- Use a torque wrench and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Reconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Tighten the terminal snugly. Do not overtighten the battery clamp.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle while watching the belt from a safe distance.
- ✅ Look for belt wobble, walking off a pulley, squealing, or slapping noises.
- ✅ Turn the A/C on and listen again. A slipping belt may squeal when the A/C compressor loads the belt.
- ✅ Shut the engine off and recheck the belt seating with a flashlight.
- ✅ Drive a short distance, then recheck for noise or burning-rubber smell.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $140-$260 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $115-$190 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















