How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with belt routing tips, required tools, parts, and safety checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with belt routing tips, required tools, parts, and safety checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives important accessories on your Altima, including the alternator, A/C compressor, and power steering-related accessories. Replacing it means relieving belt tension, removing the old belt, routing the new belt correctly, and checking that it sits fully in every pulley groove.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1 hour
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only with the engine completely off and cool.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers, sleeves, and tools away from pulleys and the radiator fan area.
- ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended to prevent accidental starting while your hands are near the belt path.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Take a photo of the old belt routing before removal. This prevents mistakes during installation.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 14mm wrench
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Flashlight
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Fender liner push clips - Qty: As needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground.
- Set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- Use a phone to take a clear photo of the belt routing before removing anything.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket. Move the cable away from the battery post.
- If raising the front passenger side, use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) and support the vehicle with jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Access the Belt Area
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to raise the front passenger side if you need more room.
- Place a jack stand (rated 2-ton minimum) under the proper front support point before working.
- Use a trim clip removal tool and flat-head screwdriver to remove the passenger-side lower splash shield or inner fender liner clips as needed.
- A splash shield is the plastic panel that blocks road dirt and water from the belt area.
- Keep clips organized.
Step 2: Locate the Belt Tensioner
- Use a flashlight to look at the front passenger side of the engine where the belt loops around the pulleys.
- Find the automatic belt tensioner. The tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
- On your Altima, the tensioner has a hex area for a wrench or belt tool so you can rotate it and release belt tension.
Step 3: Release Belt Tension
- Place a 14mm wrench or serpentine belt tool (specialty) on the tensioner hex.
- Slowly rotate the tensioner to relieve pressure from the belt.
- A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin handle that gives extra reach in tight spaces.
- While holding the tensioner released, slide the belt off one easy-to-reach pulley, usually the smooth idler pulley.
- Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position. Do not let it snap back.
Step 4: Remove the Old Belt
- Use your hands with mechanic gloves to pull the belt out from around each pulley.
- Compare the old belt to the new serpentine drive belt. The length and rib count should match.
- Inspect the old belt for cracks, missing ribs, glazing, or fraying.
- Heavy fraying can mean pulley misalignment.
Step 5: Inspect the Pulleys
- Use a flashlight to inspect each pulley groove.
- Spin accessible smooth pulleys by hand while wearing mechanic gloves.
- They should spin smoothly without grinding, wobbling, or noise.
- If a pulley feels rough or loose, the belt may fail early even after replacement.
Step 6: Route the New Belt
- Use your belt routing photo as your guide.
- Route the new serpentine drive belt around the crankshaft pulley first. The crankshaft pulley is the large lower pulley that drives the belt.
- Fit the ribbed side of the belt into ribbed pulleys.
- Fit the smooth back side of the belt against smooth pulleys.
- Leave one easy-to-reach smooth pulley for last.
- Make sure the belt ribs sit fully inside the grooves on every pulley.
Step 7: Install the Belt Over the Final Pulley
- Use the 14mm wrench or serpentine belt tool (specialty) to rotate the belt tensioner again.
- Slide the belt over the final pulley with your free hand.
- Slowly release the tensioner so it tightens the belt.
- Use a flashlight to verify the belt is centered on every pulley.
- One rib off can shred the belt.
Step 8: Reinstall the Splash Shield
- Use a trim clip removal tool or your hands to reinstall the passenger-side splash shield or fender liner.
- Replace any broken fender liner push clips.
- Use a flat-head screwdriver only gently on plastic clips to avoid cracking them.
Step 9: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift slightly off the jack stand.
- Remove the jack stand (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Lower your Altima slowly to the ground.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
- Tighten the battery terminal snugly. Do not overtighten.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and watch the belt for 20-30 seconds.
- The belt should run smoothly with no wobble, squeal, or walking off the pulleys.
- Turn the A/C on and listen for belt noise.
- Shut the engine off and recheck that the belt is still seated in every pulley groove.
- If you disconnected the battery, reset the clock, radio presets, and auto-up window function if needed.
- To relearn the front window auto-up function, fully lower the window, fully raise it, then hold the switch up for about 3 seconds.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $140-$260 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $25-$65 (parts only)
You Save: $115-$195 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1 hour.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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