How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima 3.5L V6 (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step belt replacement guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and routing checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima 3.5L V6 (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step belt replacement guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and routing checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Serpentine Belt Replacement
The serpentine belt drives important engine accessories like the alternator, A/C compressor, and power steering system. On your Altima with the 3.5L V6, the belt is released using the automatic belt tensioner, then routed back around the pulleys in the correct pattern.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1 hour
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only with the engine completely off and cool.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers, clothing, and tools away from pulleys and the belt path.
- ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended because your hands will be near rotating engine accessories.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if raising the passenger-front side. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Take a photo of the old belt routing before removal so you have a backup reference.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet handle
- Serpentine belt tool with 14mm socket adapter (specialty)
- Long-handle 14mm wrench
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Fender liner push clips - Qty: 2-4
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the terminal.
- Use your phone to take a clear picture of the belt routing before removing the old belt.
- A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin wrench that helps reach the spring-loaded belt tensioner in tight spaces.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the Passenger-Front Side
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the passenger-front side of your Altima at the proper front jacking point.
- Place a jack stand rated 2-ton minimum under the reinforced support point.
- Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stand.
- Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working near the wheel well.
Step 2: Access the Belt Through the Wheel Well
- Turn the steering wheel fully to the right to create more room at the passenger-front wheel well.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic push clips from the passenger-side lower splash shield.
- Pull the splash shield back enough to see the crankshaft pulley and lower belt area.
- Take your time with plastic clips.
Step 3: Locate the Belt Tensioner
- Use a flashlight to find the automatic belt tensioner near the belt path.
- The tensioner is spring-loaded, meaning it keeps constant pressure on the belt automatically.
- Look for the 14mm hex area on the tensioner arm where the tool fits.
Step 4: Release Belt Tension
- Install the serpentine belt tool with 14mm socket adapter onto the tensioner hex.
- Slowly rotate the tensioner to relieve belt pressure.
- Hold the tensioner steady while sliding the belt off the easiest smooth pulley first.
- A smooth pulley is not grooved and is usually easier for belt removal.
- Do not let the tensioner snap back. Ease it back slowly with the serpentine belt tool.
Step 5: Remove the Old Belt
- Use your hands with work gloves to pull the old belt off the remaining pulleys.
- Work from the upper engine area and wheel well as needed.
- Compare the old belt to the new serpentine drive belt to make sure the length and rib count match.
- The ribs are the long grooves on the inside of the belt that fit into grooved pulleys.
Step 6: Inspect the Pulleys
- Use your hand to spin the accessible idler pulleys and tensioner pulley.
- They should spin smoothly with no grinding, wobble, or rough feel.
- Check that grooved pulleys are clean and free of rubber chunks.
- If a pulley is noisy or wobbly, replace it before installing the new belt.
Step 7: Route the New Belt
- Route the new serpentine drive belt around the pulleys using your belt-routing photo as the guide.
- Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in grooved pulleys.
- Make sure the smooth side of the belt rides on smooth pulleys.
- Leave the easiest smooth pulley for last.
- Keep every rib fully seated.
Step 8: Slip the Belt Onto the Last Pulley
- Use the serpentine belt tool with 14mm socket adapter to rotate the tensioner again.
- Slide the belt over the final smooth pulley by hand.
- Slowly release the tensioner with the serpentine belt tool.
- Check every pulley from the top and wheel well with a flashlight.
- The belt must sit centered on each pulley with no rib hanging off the edge.
Step 9: Reinstall the Splash Shield
- Push the passenger-side splash shield back into position.
- Use your hands, flat-blade screwdriver, or trim clip removal tool to reinstall the plastic push clips.
- Replace any broken fender liner push clips with new clips.
Step 10: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect Battery
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the passenger-front side slightly off the jack stand.
- Remove the jack stand.
- Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground with the floor jack.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) if using a small torque wrench; otherwise snug only, do not overtighten.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
- Watch the belt from a safe distance. It should run straight with no wobble, squeal, or slap.
- Turn the A/C on and listen for belt noise.
- Shut the engine off and recheck that the belt is still seated correctly on every pulley.
- If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and any radio presets if needed.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $140-$260 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $30-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $110-$190 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1 hour.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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