🔧 Accord - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (also called the drive belt) spins key accessories like the alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing it is mostly about safely accessing the belt from the passenger-side wheel well and releasing the automatic tensioner to slip the belt on and off.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers and tools clear of pulleys; never check belt alignment with the engine running.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool; working near a hot engine/exhaust can burn you.
• ⚠️ Do not place your hand between the belt and pulleys while releasing the tensioner.
• Battery disconnect is not required, but keep the key out of the ignition so nobody starts it.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set
• 10mm socket
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Trim clip removal tool
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs)
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt (accessory drive belt) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Have your phone ready to take a picture of the belt routing before removal. Photos save headaches later.
• Automatic belt tensioner: a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight; you rotate it with a wrench to remove/install the belt.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the passenger-front wheel

• Use a 19mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).

Step 2: Raise and support the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the front passenger side at the proper jack point.
• Set the car onto jack stands and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the lug nuts using the 19mm socket, then remove the wheel.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield / inner fender access panel

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic push-clips.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any 10mm bolts holding the access panel.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 for any Phillips screws, if equipped.
• Move the panel aside to expose the crank pulley area and belt path.

Step 4: Confirm belt routing before removal

• Use a work light to clearly see the belt around each pulley.
• Take a clear photo showing how the belt wraps each pulley.
• Make sure you note which pulleys are grooved (belt ribs sit in grooves) vs. smooth (the flat back of the belt rides on smooth pulleys).

Step 5: Release tension from the automatic tensioner

• Locate the belt tensioner from the wheel-well opening.
• Place a 14mm socket on the tensioner’s hex (the wrenching point on the tensioner arm/bolt head).
• Use a 3/8" drive ratchet (and a 3/8" drive extension set if needed) to rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension.
• Hold steady—spring pressure is strong.

Step 6: Remove the old belt

• While holding the tensioner released with the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, slip the belt off the easiest-to-reach pulley.
• Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position (do not let it snap back).
• Remove the belt from the remaining pulleys and pull it out through the wheel well.

Step 7: Inspect pulleys and tensioner

• Spin each accessible pulley by hand (engine off). They should spin smoothly and quietly.
• Look for wobble, grinding noise, or oil/coolant contamination. If the belt area is wet, fix the leak first or the new belt can fail early.

Step 8: Install the new belt (route it first, then tension last)

• Route the new belt around the pulleys following your photo, leaving one easy pulley for last.
• Make sure the belt ribs are seated fully in the grooves on every grooved pulley.
• Rotate the tensioner again using the 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet, then slip the belt onto the final pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner to apply tension to the belt.
• If it won’t slip on, re-check routing.

Step 9: Double-check belt alignment

• Use a work light to inspect every pulley.
• Confirm the belt is centered and fully seated; no ribs hanging off an edge.

Step 10: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

• Reinstall the access panel using the 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and Phillips screwdriver #2 as needed.
• Reinstall push-clips using the trim clip removal tool (press them fully seated).
• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 20–30 seconds while you listen for squeaks or slapping noises.
• Shut the engine off and re-check belt seating with the work light.
• If you hear chirping/squeal, re-check belt routing and make sure the belt ribs are fully in the grooves.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $30-$80 (parts only)

You Save: $150-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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