🔧 Soul - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (also called the drive belt) spins your alternator and other accessories. If it’s cracked, glazed, squealing, or you’ve lost charging power, replacing it is a smart, DIY-friendly fix.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

Assumption: Access is easiest through the right-front wheel well.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; hot parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers/clothes clear of pulleys and the belt path.
• ⚠️ If your hands will be near electrical connections, disconnect the negative battery terminal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive breaker bar
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lb range)
• Flat trim clip tool (specialty)
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt (accessory drive belt) - Qty: 1
• Fender liner clips/push pins - Qty: 2-6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Open the hood and look for the belt routing diagram (often on the radiator support/under-hood area). If missing, take a clear photo or sketch the routing before removal.
• If you choose to disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the right-front corner safely

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts about 1 turn while the tire is on the ground.
• Lift the right-front with a floor jack, then support it with jack stands at a solid jack point.
• Remove the wheel using a 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the right-front splash shield (fender liner access panel)

• Use a trim clip tool to pop out the plastic push pins.
• Use a 10mm socket (and/or 12mm socket if equipped) to remove any small bolts holding the access panel/liner section.
• Pull the liner/access panel back enough to clearly see the belt and tensioner.
• A trim clip tool prevents breaking the clips.

Step 3: Locate the belt tensioner and set up to release tension

• Find the belt tensioner (a spring-loaded arm with a smooth pulley). It keeps the belt tight automatically.
• Place a 17mm socket on the tensioner’s hex boss/bolt head (where the tool fits).
• Attach a 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar for leverage.

Step 4: Release tension and remove the old belt

• Rotate the tensioner with the 17mm socket to relieve belt tension (it will feel strong because it’s spring-loaded).
• While holding the tensioner back, slip the belt off the easiest top pulley to reach (commonly the alternator pulley).
• Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position. Do not let it snap back.
• Pull the belt out of the engine bay through the wheel well opening.

Step 5: Route the new belt correctly

• Compare the new belt to the old one (length and rib count should match).
• Route the new belt around the pulleys following your under-hood diagram/photo.
• Make sure the belt ribs sit fully in the ribbed pulleys, and the belt runs centered on smooth pulleys.
• If one rib is off, it will shred quickly.

Step 6: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Rotate the tensioner again using the 17mm socket and ratchet/breaker bar.
• Slip the belt over the last pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner so it tightens the belt.
• Visually check every pulley: the belt must be fully seated in every groove.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield and wheel

• Reinstall the liner/access panel using the 10mm socket/12mm socket and push pins with the trim clip tool.
• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reconnect battery (if disconnected)

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and watch the belt for 30-60 seconds with a flashlight from a safe distance.
• Listen for squeal, chirping, or slapping noises (common signs the belt isn’t seated on a pulley).
• Shut the engine off and re-check belt alignment on every pulley.
• After a short test drive, do one more quick visual check through the wheel well.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $125-$250 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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