🔧 Focus - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives your alternator and other accessories. Replacing it restores proper charging and accessory operation and prevents a sudden breakdown if the belt is cracked, noisy, or slipping.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; keep hands away from moving pulleys.
• ⚠️ Support your Focus with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear when releasing the tensioner (spring-loaded and can snap back).
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine until all tools are removed and the belt is fully seated.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 15mm socket
• Short extension (3")
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to neutral, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (usually on a sticker near the radiator support). If it’s missing, take a clear photo of the current routing before removal.
• Tip: Take a phone picture from above and below.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the right-front wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove them yet).

Step 2: Raise and support the car

• Lift the right-front using a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car securely on jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Remove the wheel using the 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet.

Step 3: Remove the right-front splash shield (inner fender liner section)

• Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic push-clips/screws holding the access portion of the liner.
• Peel the liner back enough to clearly see the belt and tensioner. Use a work light for visibility.

Step 4: Relieve belt tension

• Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded pulley assembly).
• Install a 15mm socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet (use a short extension (3") if it helps alignment).
• Rotate the tensioner to relieve tension, then slide the belt off the nearest accessible pulley.
• Tip: Move slowly; the spring is strong.

Step 5: Remove the old belt

• With the tension released, pull the belt out from around the pulleys through the wheel-well opening.
• Spin each pulley by hand and listen/feel for roughness or wobble (a bad pulley can ruin a new belt).

Step 6: Route the new belt

• Compare the new belt to the old one for matching length and rib count.
• Route the belt following the under-hood belt routing diagram.
• Make sure the belt ribs are fully seated in the grooves on every ribbed pulley (misalignment will shred the belt).

Step 7: Re-apply tension and final-check alignment

• Use the 15mm socket with the 1/2" drive ratchet to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt onto the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Visually confirm the belt is centered on every pulley from the wheel well using the work light.

Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield and wheel

• Reposition the liner and reinstall clips/screws using the trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver.
• Install the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20–200 Nm range): Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 30–60 seconds (no wandering, squeal, or flutter).
• Turn on electrical loads (headlights, rear defrost) and confirm no belt noise.
• Shut the engine off and do a final visual check of belt seating from the wheel well using the work light.
• Tip: Recheck after a short test drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $155-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.