🔧 Tucson - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (also called the accessory drive belt) runs your A/C compressor, alternator, and other pulleys. On your Tucson, you’ll relieve tension with the automatic belt tensioner, slip the old belt off, then route the new belt correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.7-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of fans and pulleys.
• 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Keep tools/clothing away from the belt path before starting.
• ✅ Battery disconnect is not required for this job, but keep the key out of the ignition while routing the belt.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension set
• 10mm socket
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm socket
• Flat trim clip tool
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt (accessory drive belt) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram (usually on the radiator support or underside of the hood). If it’s missing, take a clear photo/sketch of the current routing before removing the belt.
• “Belt tensioner” = spring-loaded arm that keeps belt tight.
• Trim clip tool = pry tool for plastic fasteners.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the right-front wheel (if accessing through wheel well)

• Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to crack the lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support your Tucson

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the right-front corner at the proper jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Leave the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) lightly touching as a backup support.

Step 3: Remove the right-front wheel

• Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar or torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range) (as a wrench) to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 4: Remove the right-front splash shield (inner fender) for access

• Use a flat trim clip tool to pry out plastic push-clips.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any 10mm screws/bolts holding the splash shield.
• Pull the splash shield back enough to clearly see the belt and tensioner.

Step 5: Locate the belt tensioner and choose the correct release point

• Shine a flashlight on the tensioner area and identify how it’s meant to be rotated.
• Common setups you may see:
• Option A: A hex “boss” on the tensioner arm — use a 14mm combination wrench on that hex.
• Option B: No hex boss, but you can rotate it using the tensioner pulley center bolt — use a 17mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet (or 1/2" drive breaker bar if needed) on that bolt.
• Do not remove the pulley bolt—only rotate tension.

Step 6: Relieve belt tension

• Use the tool from Step 5 (14mm combination wrench or 17mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet) to rotate the tensioner and relieve tension.
• While holding tension off, slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley (often the idler or tensioner pulley).
• Slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position. Do not let it snap back.

Step 7: Remove the old belt and confirm routing

• Pull the belt out through the wheel well opening.
• Compare the old belt to the new belt for length and rib count.
• Use the belt routing diagram under the hood to confirm the correct path before installing.

Step 8: Install the new belt (route first, then tension last)

• Route the new belt around the lower pulleys first, then work upward, matching the routing diagram.
• Make sure the ribbed side sits in ribbed pulley grooves and the smooth side rides on smooth pulleys.
• Leave one easy pulley for last (the one you’ll slip on after releasing the tensioner).
• If a rib is off, it will shred fast.

Step 9: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Rotate the tensioner again using the 14mm combination wrench or 17mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Slip the belt fully onto the last pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner so it tightens the belt.
• Use a flashlight to inspect every pulley: the belt must be centered and fully seated in the grooves.

Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield

• Reposition the splash shield.
• Reinstall 10mm fasteners using a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Reinstall push-clips using a flat trim clip tool.

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Install lug nuts by hand first.
• Snug them with a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet or 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Lower the vehicle with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then fully lower.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range): Torque to 122 Nm (90 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt (from a safe distance) for 30–60 seconds.
• Listen for squealing, slapping, or chirping. If you hear it, shut off and re-check belt seating with a flashlight.
• Do a short test drive, then re-check that everything is secure and the belt is still centered on all pulleys.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$280 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$60 (parts only)

You Save: $125-$220 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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