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2013 Toyota Highlander
2011 - 2016 Toyota Highlander
V6 3.5L
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2008-16 Toyota Highlander serpentine drive belt replacement (#diy, step by step)

2008-16 Toyota Highlander serpentine drive belt replacement (#diy, step by step)

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
Serpentine Belt
Serpentine Belt
Tool
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How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2011-2016 Toyota Highlander (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step belt routing, tensioner release, tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 2011-2016 Toyota Highlander (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step belt routing, tensioner release, tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives key engine accessories on your Highlander, including the alternator and A/C compressor. Replacing it involves releasing the automatic belt tensioner, removing the old belt, routing the new belt correctly, and checking that it sits fully in each pulley groove.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.7-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Turn the vehicle OFF and remove the smart key from the work area.
  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool before working near the belt, pulleys, radiator fan, or exhaust parts.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands, sleeves, hair, and tools away from the belt area if the engine is running.
  • ⚠️ Do not touch orange high-voltage hybrid cables or hybrid system components.
  • ⚠️ Disconnecting the 12V battery negative cable is recommended to prevent accidental READY mode.
  • ⚠️ Never pry against plastic pulleys or force the belt over pulley edges.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet wrench
  • 14mm socket
  • Long-handle 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Plastic trim clip remover
  • Flashlight
  • Torque wrench inch-pound
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
  • Drive belt tensioner assembly - Qty: 1 if noisy, weak, leaking, or rough
  • Idler pulley - Qty: 1 if noisy, wobbly, or rough

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Highlander on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Make sure the vehicle is OFF, not in READY mode.
  • Keep the smart key at least 15 feet away from the vehicle.
  • Open the hood and let the engine cool.
  • A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin wrench used to move the belt tensioner in tight spaces.
  • The belt tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight automatically.
  • Take a clear photo of the belt routing before removal using your phone and a flashlight.
  • If disconnecting the 12V battery, use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to remove the negative cable first.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Upper Engine Cover if Equipped

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Lift the engine cover straight upward by hand if it is held by rubber grommets.
  • If small fasteners are fitted, use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to remove them.
  • Set the cover aside in a safe place.

Step 2: Remove Any Belt-Area Access Shield

  • Use a plastic trim clip remover to remove plastic push clips from the upper radiator or side access shield if they block your view.
  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to remove any small shield bolts.
  • Use a flashlight to inspect the belt path from the top of the engine bay.

Step 3: Record the Belt Routing

  • Use a flashlight and take a photo of how the belt wraps around each pulley.
  • Look for the belt routing decal under the hood or near the radiator support.
  • If the decal is missing, use your photo as your guide for installation.
  • Photos prevent routing mistakes.

Step 4: Locate the Automatic Belt Tensioner

  • Use a flashlight to find the spring-loaded tensioner pulley on the belt path.
  • The tensioner has a pulley and a hex-shaped bolt head at the center or arm area.
  • Fit a 14mm socket onto the tensioner bolt head.
  • Attach a long-handle 3/8-inch drive ratchet or serpentine belt tool to the socket.

Step 5: Release Belt Tension

  • Pull the long-handle 3/8-inch drive ratchet or serpentine belt tool slowly to rotate the tensioner and loosen the belt.
  • Do not remove the tensioner bolt. You are only rotating the tensioner arm.
  • While holding the tensioner released, slide the belt off the easiest smooth pulley by hand.
  • Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position.
  • Move slowly and steadily.

Step 6: Remove the Old Belt

  • Pull the old belt out by hand from around the pulleys.
  • Use a flashlight to check each pulley groove for rubber pieces, oil, or debris.
  • Use shop towels to wipe dirty pulley faces.
  • Do not use oil, grease, or belt dressing on the pulleys.

Step 7: Inspect Pulleys and Tensioner

  • Spin each accessible pulley by hand.
  • A good pulley should spin smoothly without grinding, wobbling, or rough spots.
  • Use a flashlight to inspect the tensioner for wobble, misalignment, or fluid leakage.
  • If a pulley is noisy or loose, replace it before installing the new belt.

Step 8: Route the New Serpentine Belt

  • Compare the serpentine drive belt to the old belt by length and rib count.
  • Route the new belt by hand around the lower and rear pulleys first, following your photo or routing decal.
  • Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits in ribbed pulleys.
  • Make sure the smooth back side of the belt rides on smooth pulleys.
  • Leave one easy-to-reach smooth pulley for last.

Step 9: Seat the Belt and Release the Tensioner

  • Use the 14mm socket with the long-handle 3/8-inch drive ratchet or serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner again.
  • Slide the belt over the last pulley by hand.
  • Slowly release the tensioner until it tightens the belt.
  • Remove the 14mm socket and tool from the tensioner.

Step 10: Verify Belt Alignment

  • Use a flashlight to inspect every pulley.
  • Make sure every belt rib is fully seated in the pulley grooves.
  • If the belt is one groove off, use the 14mm socket and serpentine belt tool to release tension and reposition it by hand.
  • Never start the engine if the belt is crooked or hanging off a pulley.

Step 11: Reinstall Covers and Shields

  • Reinstall any removed access shields by hand.
  • Use the plastic trim clip remover to line up plastic clips, then press clips in by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to reinstall small shield bolts.
  • Tighten small cover bolts with a torque wrench inch-pound to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
  • Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it down evenly by hand.

Step 12: Reconnect the 12V Battery if Disconnected

  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to reconnect the negative 12V battery cable.
  • Tighten the terminal nut with a torque wrench inch-pound to Torque to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs).
  • Make sure the cable terminal does not twist by hand.

✅ After Repair

  • Start your Highlander and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
  • Watch the belt from a safe distance using a flashlight.
  • The belt should run straight, smoothly, and quietly.
  • Turn the A/C on and listen for squealing, chirping, or slapping sounds.
  • Turn the vehicle OFF and recheck belt alignment after the first short drive.
  • If the belt walks off-center, squeals, or shreds, stop driving and inspect pulley alignment and the tensioner.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $140-$280 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $115-$205 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.


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