🔧 Accord - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt (also called the drive belt) spins key accessories like the alternator and A/C. On your Accord, an automatic belt tensioner keeps the belt tight, so replacement is mainly about safely releasing that tension and routing the new belt correctly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns near the radiator and engine.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of pulleys while releasing the tensioner (it’s spring-loaded and can snap back).
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before going into the wheel well area.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job, but keep tools away from the battery terminals.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 14mm box-end wrench
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Trim clip remover
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt (drive belt) - Qty: 1
• Fender liner push clips - Qty: 2-6

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the shifter in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and locate the belt routing diagram sticker (usually near the radiator support/underhood area). If it’s missing, take a quick photo of the current routing before removal.
• Tip: Take a clear phone photo now.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the right-front corner safely

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the right-front jack point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum).
• Keep wheel chocks in place behind the rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the right-front wheel

• Use a 19mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts, then remove them and the wheel.
• Set the wheel aside out of your work area.

Step 3: Open access through the splash shield (fender liner)

• Use a trim clip remover to pop out the plastic push clips holding the front/inner portion of the fender liner.
• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any 10mm bolts holding the liner (some cars have a mix of clips and bolts).
• Peel the liner back enough to clearly see the belt and pulleys. Use a flashlight to confirm you can reach the tensioner area.
• Tip: Don’t fully remove the liner if you don’t need to.

Step 4: Relieve belt tension (automatic tensioner)

• Locate the belt tensioner. It’s a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
• Put a 14mm box-end wrench on the tensioner’s hex/bolt head.
• Rotate the tensioner smoothly to release tension, then hold it in that position.
• Tip: Move slowly—spring pressure is strong.

Step 5: Remove the old belt

• While holding the tensioner with the 14mm box-end wrench, slip the belt off the nearest easy pulley (often the alternator pulley area).
• Slowly let the tensioner return to its resting position (don’t let it snap back).
• Pull the belt out through the wheel well opening.

Step 6: Route the new belt

• Compare the old belt to the new belt (length and rib count should match).
• Route the new belt around the pulleys following the underhood routing diagram.
• Make sure the ribbed side sits in the ribbed pulleys, and the smooth side rides on smooth pulleys.
• Use a flashlight to verify the belt is centered in every pulley groove.
• Tip: Leave the easiest pulley for last.

Step 7: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Use the 14mm box-end wrench to rotate the tensioner again and slip the belt onto the last pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner so it takes up the belt slack.
• Double-check: the belt ribs must be fully seated in every groove (no “half-on” ribs).

Step 8: Reinstall the fender liner and wheel

• Reposition the liner and reinstall fasteners using the trim clip remover (clips) and 10mm socket with 3/8" drive ratchet (bolts).
• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the belt for 30-60 seconds (it should run smooth with no wobble).
• Listen for squealing or slapping noises. If you hear any, shut off the engine and re-check belt seating in the pulley grooves.
• Turn on the A/C briefly and then headlights to confirm the accessories operate normally.
• Recheck the fender liner fasteners after a short test drive (loose clips can rub the tire).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $140-$260 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $25-$65 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$210 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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