🔧 Savana - Serpentine Belt Replacement

The serpentine belt drives key accessories like the alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, and water pump. Replacing it restores proper accessory operation and helps prevent a roadside breakdown from a cracked or slipping belt.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours

Assumption: Your belt routing decal is present on the fan shroud or radiator support.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine; keep hands clear of the fan and pulleys.
• ⚠️ Remove the key and keep it in your pocket so nobody can start the engine.
• ⚠️ Do not place fingers between the belt and pulleys while releasing the tensioner.
• ⚠️ If you raise the van for access, support it with jack stands before going underneath.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Flashlight
• 3/8" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• 15mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Flat trim tool
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and use a flashlight to find the belt routing decal (commonly on the fan shroud or radiator support). Take a clear photo for reference.
• If access is tight from above, raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the frame points.
• A serpentine belt tool is a long, thin handle. It helps reach the tensioner in tight spaces.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Create working room

• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the air intake duct clamps if they block your view/access.
• Use a flat trim tool to release any intake duct clips, then move the duct aside (do not force it).

Step 2: Inspect and verify the belt routing

• Use a flashlight to trace the belt around each pulley and compare it to the routing decal (or your photo).
• Look at each pulley face for rubber dust, wobble, or a shiny “polished” surface (signs of misalignment or a bad pulley).

Step 3: Release the belt tensioner

• Install a 15mm socket on a 3/8" breaker bar (or use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) with the correct socket).
• Place the socket on the automatic tensioner bolt head and rotate the tensioner to relieve belt tension.
• While holding tension released, slide the belt off the easiest-to-reach smooth pulley (often an idler pulley) using gloved hands.
• Slowly let the tensioner return to its stop. Do not let it snap back.

Step 4: Remove the old belt

• Pull the belt out from around the remaining pulleys by hand.
• Use a flashlight to confirm the belt didn’t leave debris in any pulley grooves.

Step 5: Route the new belt

• Route the new belt following the routing decal/photo, leaving one easy pulley for last.
• Make sure the ribbed side of the belt sits fully in the grooved pulleys and the smooth side runs on smooth pulleys.
• If one rib is off, it will squeal fast.

Step 6: Apply tension and seat the belt

• Use the 15mm socket with the 3/8" breaker bar to rotate the tensioner again.
• Slip the belt over the last pulley, then slowly release the tensioner.
• Use a flashlight to check every pulley: the belt should be centered and fully seated in the grooves.

Step 7: Reinstall anything you moved

• Reposition the intake duct and tighten clamps using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• If the van was raised, remove tools, then lower it safely using the floor jack and remove the jack stands.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and watch the belt for 20–30 seconds. It should run smooth with no hopping.
• Listen for squealing or chirping. If you hear it, shut off the engine and re-check belt routing and seating.
• Turn the steering wheel slightly and switch the A/C on. Confirm no belt noise under load.
• Recheck belt alignment one more time after a short 5-minute drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $150-$300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$80 (parts only)

You Save: $115-$220 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.