🔧 Rear Window Regulators - Replacement

This job replaces the rear door window regulator assemblies so the rear windows move up and down correctly again. On your Highlander, the door trim panel must come off first, then the glass is supported while the regulator is removed and swapped out.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work with the ignition OFF and the key away from the vehicle.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door wiring or removing the door panel.
• Support the window glass at all times so it does not drop inside the door.
• The window glass edges can be sharp; wear gloves and safety glasses.
• Be careful around the side curtain airbag area inside the door trim.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• Ratchet
• Short extension
• Trim panel tool
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Torque wrench
• Tape
• Gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 2
• Door panel clips - Qty: 1 set
• Plastic vapor barrier adhesive - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and fully lower the rear windows if they still move.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
• Have tape ready to hold the glass in place once the regulator is removed.
• If the window is stuck partly open, support the glass before removing any hardware.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

• Use a trim panel tool to carefully pry off the door handle bezel and switch trim.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove any visible screws in the armrest and behind trim covers.
• Use a trim panel tool to pop the door panel clips free around the edge.
• Lift the panel upward to unhook it from the window sill.
• Disconnect any electrical connectors for switches or speakers.

Step 2: Peel back the vapor barrier

• Use your hands and a flat-blade screwdriver carefully to lift the plastic vapor barrier.
• Keep the barrier clean so it can be reused.
• Do not tear the seal.

Step 3: Secure the window glass

• Use tape across the top of the door frame and onto the glass to hold the window in position.
• If the glass is already down, lift it by hand to align it near the top of the door opening and tape it in place.
• Support the glass so it cannot fall once the regulator is loosened.

Step 4: Remove the regulator fasteners

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet with a short extension to remove the regulator mounting bolts.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolts or nuts holding the glass to the regulator carrier, if equipped.
• Carefully slide the regulator away from the glass track.

Step 5: Remove the old regulator

• Use a 12mm socket if needed for additional regulator bolts on some door setups.
• Rotate and maneuver the regulator assembly out through the largest service opening in the door.
• Watch the cable spool and arms so they do not snag on the door shell.

Step 6: Install the new regulator

• Feed the new regulator assembly into the door through the service opening.
• Align the mounting holes and start all fasteners by hand using a 10mm socket.
• Reconnect the glass to the regulator carrier.
• Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs) for small regulator and glass fasteners unless your replacement kit specifies otherwise.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) for regulator mounting bolts unless your replacement kit specifies otherwise.

Step 7: Test the window before reassembly

• Reconnect the battery temporarily.
• Use the window switch to run the glass up and down with a light touch on the switch.
• Make sure the glass tracks straight and does not bind.
• If the window works correctly, disconnect the battery again before reassembly.

Step 8: Reinstall the door trim panel

• Reattach the vapor barrier with plastic vapor barrier adhesive if needed.
• Reconnect all electrical plugs.
• Hang the door panel on the upper window ledge first, then press the clips into place.
• Install all screws using a Phillips screwdriver.
• Snap the trim covers back into place.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Cycle the window fully down and fully up several times to confirm smooth operation.
• Check that the door panel sits flush and that all switches work.
• Listen for rubbing, clicking, or cable noise from inside the door.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$640 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.