How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2018 Subaru Legacy (Left or Right)
Step-by-step rear door window regulator removal and install with tools, parts list, safety tips, and function test
How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2018 Subaru Legacy (Left or Right)
Step-by-step rear door window regulator removal and install with tools, parts list, safety tips, and function test


đź”§ Legacy - Rear Window Regulator Replacement
The rear window regulator is the mechanism that lifts and lowers the glass. Replacing it involves removing the rear door trim panel, supporting the glass, unbolting the regulator (and motor if included), then reinstalling and testing.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (one rear door)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the window track and scissor/cable mechanism while powered.
- ⚠️ Support the glass securely before unbolting it from the regulator so it doesn’t drop.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll unplug airbag-related connectors (some door harnesses have yellow SRS wiring; don’t probe it).
- ⚠️ Use painter’s tape to secure the glass to the door frame to prevent sudden movement.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Trim clip removal tool
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" socket extension
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low Nm)
- Painters tape (1.5")
- Pick tool
- Magnetic parts tray
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear window regulator (correct side) - Qty: 1
- Rear window regulator motor (if not included with regulator) - Qty: 1
- Door panel trim clips (rear) - Qty: 6-12
- Butyl tape (door vapor barrier reseal) - Qty: 1
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and turn the ignition OFF.
- Lower the rear window until you can access the glass-to-regulator fasteners through the door’s service holes (if it still moves).
- If the window is stuck up, you’ll secure the glass first, then separate it once the panel is off.
- If you see any yellow SRS connectors in the door, disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket and wait 3 minutes before unplugging anything. (SRS = airbag system.)
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel
- Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently pop the small trim cover(s) hiding screws near the interior door handle and/or armrest.
- Remove the exposed screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop the door panel clips around the edges. Start at the bottom corner.
- Lift the panel upward to unhook it from the window ledge.
- Unplug the window switch and any courtesy light connectors using a pick tool to release tabs (don’t pull on wires).
Step 2: Remove and save the vapor barrier
- Carefully peel back the plastic vapor barrier using your hands and a trim clip removal tool as needed.
- Try to keep the sticky butyl intact; you’ll reseal it. If it’s torn or won’t stick, plan to use butyl tape.
Step 3: Support the window glass
- Raise the glass fully by hand or by reconnecting the switch temporarily (keep hands clear of the regulator).
- Secure the glass to the door frame using painters tape (1.5") in 2–3 long strips from outside over the top of the door frame to inside.
- If the glass is loose, hold it with one hand while applying tape with the other.
Step 4: Disconnect the glass from the regulator
- Look through the door service holes to find the glass clamps/fasteners.
- Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" socket extension to loosen/remove the fasteners holding the glass to the regulator.
- Once separated, slide the glass fully up and re-tape it securely.
Step 5: Unplug the regulator motor (if equipped separately)
- Locate the motor electrical connector on the inner door.
- Press the tab and unplug it by hand; use a pick tool gently if the tab is stubborn.
Step 6: Remove the regulator (and motor if it comes out together)
- Remove the regulator mounting bolts using a 10mm socket, ratchet, and extension.
- If the motor is separate, remove its bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Maneuver the regulator out through the largest access opening. Rotate and tilt slowly.
- Place bolts in a magnetic parts tray so nothing drops into the door.
Step 7: Install the new regulator
- Feed the new regulator into the door opening the same way the old one came out.
- Start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten using a 10mm socket and ratchet, then finalize with a torque wrench to the factory specification for your rear regulator/motor fasteners. Torque to factory spec.
Step 8: Reattach the glass to the regulator
- Remove some tape so the glass can lower slightly into position, but keep one strip supporting it.
- Align the glass into the regulator clamp/attach points.
- Install and tighten the glass fasteners using a 10mm socket and ratchet, then finish with a torque wrench to the factory specification. Torque to factory spec.
Step 9: Function test before reassembly
- Reconnect the window switch connector.
- Turn ignition ON and run the window fully down and fully up while watching the track through the access holes.
- If it binds or tilts, stop and recheck that the regulator is seated and the glass is properly clamped.
Step 10: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel
- Press the vapor barrier back into place; add butyl tape where it won’t reseal.
- Reconnect all electrical connectors (switch, courtesy light).
- Hang the door panel on the top ledge, then press the clips in by hand around the perimeter.
- Reinstall screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver and snap covers back in using a small flat-blade screwdriver.
âś… After Repair
- Cycle the rear window 5–10 times to confirm smooth movement and normal speed.
- Confirm the door handle works from inside and outside, and the lock/unlock functions normally.
- If the auto-up/down or pinch protection acts odd, cycle the window fully down, then fully up and hold the switch up for 2 seconds to help it relearn (if equipped).
- Listen for water/air leaks on your next drive; a poorly sealed vapor barrier can cause wind noise and wet carpets.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $90-$250 (parts only)
You Save: $260-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















