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2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2014 - 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
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How to Replace Rear Window Motor & Regulator Assemblies 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

How to Replace Rear Window Motor & Regulator Assemblies 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

7mm
7mm
Socket
or (1/4")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
1.5"
1.5"
Extension
T20
T20
Torx Star
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How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Step-by-step repair with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and window testing for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Step-by-step repair with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and window testing for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

🔧 Rear Window Regulator - Replacement

On your Silverado, the rear door window regulator is the track-and-cable assembly that raises and lowers the glass. If the window drops, binds, or the motor runs but the glass does not move, the regulator is usually the failed part. This guide covers one rear door; repeat the same steps for the other side if needed.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per side


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. This helps prevent accidental window movement and airbag warning lights.
  • The rear door contains a side-impact airbag. Do not probe, cut, or tug on yellow airbag wiring.
  • Support the glass before removing the regulator. The glass can drop suddenly and break.
  • Use tape to hold the window glass in the fully up position while the regulator is out.
  • Keep hands clear of the regulator tracks. They can pinch fingers hard.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 7mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4-inch ratchet
  • 1/4-inch extension
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Plastic trim removal tool
  • Flat trim tool
  • Panel clip pliers
  • Painter’s tape
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Torque wrench
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear door window regulator - Replace in pairs if both sides are failing - Qty: 1
  • Rear door window motor - Qty: 1 if the motor is bad
  • Door panel clip set - Qty: 1
  • Moisture barrier adhesive tape - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • Lower the window slightly only if it still moves, then raise it fully for removal.
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait at least 10 minutes before removing the door panel.
  • If the truck has a rear door child lock or window lock feature, turn it off before testing.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

  • Use the 7mm socket to remove the door handle and armrest screws.
  • Use the Torx T20 screwdriver to remove any hidden trim screws behind the handle bezel or switch panel.
  • Use the plastic trim removal tool to pop the door panel clips loose.
  • Lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the top window ledge.
  • Disconnect the electrical connectors for the window switch and any courtesy light.

Step 2: Peel back the moisture barrier

  • Use the flat trim tool to carefully lift the moisture barrier adhesive.
  • Keep the barrier clean so it can be reused if possible.
  • Do not tear the foam barrier.

Step 3: Secure the glass

  • Raise the window glass all the way up if it still moves.
  • Use painter’s tape across the top of the door frame and over the glass to hold it in place.
  • If the glass is already down, gently lift it into the fully up position by hand and tape it securely.

Step 4: Disconnect the window glass from the regulator

  • Use the 10mm socket and 1/4-inch ratchet to remove the glass-to-regulator fasteners through the access holes.
  • Slide the glass slightly by hand only if needed to reach both fasteners.
  • Support the glass while loosening the last fastener so it does not drop.

Step 5: Remove the old regulator

  • Use the 10mm socket to remove the regulator mounting bolts.
  • Use the 1/4-inch extension for the lower bolts inside the door shell.
  • Unplug the regulator motor connector.
  • Work the regulator assembly out through the large service opening in the door.
  • Rotate the assembly until it clears the door frame.

Step 6: Install the new regulator

  • Feed the new regulator into the door opening in the same orientation as the old unit.
  • Connect the motor electrical plug.
  • Start all mounting bolts by hand with the 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 8 N·m (71 in-lbs) on the regulator mounting bolts.

Step 7: Reattach the glass to the regulator

  • Carefully lower the taped glass until it lines up with the regulator clamps.
  • Install the glass fasteners using the 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 8 N·m (71 in-lbs) on the glass-to-regulator fasteners.
  • Remove the tape only after the glass is fully secured.

Step 8: Test the window before reassembly

  • Reconnect the battery temporarily if needed for testing.
  • Use the window switch to run the glass all the way down and all the way up.
  • Listen for binding, clicking, or uneven movement.
  • If the glass moves crooked, stop and realign the regulator before proceeding.

Step 9: Reinstall the moisture barrier and door panel

  • Press the moisture barrier back into place using the original adhesive.
  • Reconnect all electrical connectors on the door panel.
  • Hook the top edge of the panel onto the window ledge first.
  • Press the clips in around the perimeter using the plastic trim removal tool if needed.
  • Install the screws with the 7mm socket and Torx T20 screwdriver.
  • Torque to 2 N·m (18 in-lbs) for the trim screws.

✅ After Repair

  • Run the window fully up and fully down 3 times.
  • Check that the glass seals evenly at the top.
  • Confirm the door panel fits flush and no clips are loose.
  • If the window has auto-up or auto-down, relearn it by holding the switch in the full up position for 3 seconds, then full down for 3 seconds.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 per side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 per side (parts only)

You Save: $260-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.


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