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2016 Nissan Altima
2016 Nissan Altima
SV - Inline 4 2.5L
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How to Replace Rear Window Regulators 2012-2018 Nissan Altima

How to Replace Rear Window Regulators 2012-2018 Nissan Altima

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
3"
3"
Extension
Phillips
Phillips
Screwdriver
Trim
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How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2016 Nissan Altima (Left or Right)

Step-by-step rear door panel removal, tools/parts list, torque specs, and window auto-up reset

How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2016 Nissan Altima (Left or Right)

Step-by-step rear door panel removal, tools/parts list, torque specs, and window auto-up reset

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Orion Logo White

đź”§ Altima - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the mechanism that moves the rear door glass up and down. Replacement means removing the rear door trim panel, separating the glass from the regulator, swapping the regulator (and motor if needed), then resetting the auto-up/down function.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per rear door)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door electrical connectors.
  • ⚠️ Support the glass with painter’s tape before removing regulator bolts (glass can drop suddenly).
  • ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the regulator arms and tracks (pinch hazard).
  • ⚠️ Don’t tear the moisture barrier (water leaks and wind noise can happen).

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3" extension (1/4" drive)
  • Phillips #2 screwdriver
  • Trim removal tool set
  • Pick tool
  • Painter’s tape (1.5")
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)
  • Work gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1
  • Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (only if motor is bad)
  • Rear door trim panel clips - Qty: 6-10 (as needed)
  • Butyl tape (moisture barrier adhesive) - Qty: 1 (as needed)

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground and keep the ignition OFF.
  • Lower the affected rear window to about halfway if it still moves (this lines up the glass-to-regulator bolts).
  • Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which rear door and what you’re replacing

  • Reply with: Rear Left or Rear Right, and whether it’s regulator only or regulator + motor.
  • If you’re not sure, we can test it.

Step 2: Remove the rear door trim panel

  • Use a pick tool and trim removal tool set to pop off the small covers hiding screws (typically in the pull handle and near the inner door handle).
  • Remove the screws with a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
  • Use the trim removal tool set to pop the trim clips around the edges of the panel.
  • Lift the panel upward to unhook it from the window ledge.
  • Unplug connectors (window switch, courtesy light) by releasing tabs with a pick tool.

Step 3: Remove the moisture barrier (water shield)

  • Carefully peel the barrier back by hand; use a trim removal tool set to help separate the sticky butyl.
  • Don’t rip it—set it aside cleanly so it can be reused.

Step 4: Secure the glass in the “up” position

  • If the glass is loose or the regulator failed, manually slide the glass all the way up.
  • Use painter’s tape (1.5") to tape the glass to the door frame (several long strips).
  • More tape is better than broken glass.

Step 5: Disconnect the glass from the regulator

  • Reconnect the window switch temporarily if needed (do not reconnect battery yet unless required for positioning).
  • Line up the glass clamp/attachment bolts in the door access holes.
  • Remove the glass-to-regulator bolts using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
  • Once separated, re-check the glass is taped securely so it cannot slide down.
  • During reassembly: Torque to 7.2 Nm (64 in-lb)

Step 6: Remove the regulator (and motor if replacing)

  • Unplug the window motor connector (release tab with a pick tool).
  • Remove the regulator mounting bolts using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 3" extension.
  • Maneuver the regulator assembly out through the large access opening.
  • During reassembly: Torque to 8.7 Nm (77 in-lb)

Step 7: Transfer the motor (only if your new regulator doesn’t include one)

  • Hold the motor/regulator steady on a bench.
  • Remove the motor fasteners using a 10mm socket (or the correct fastener head if equipped).
  • Install the motor onto the new regulator in the same orientation and fully seat it before tightening.
  • During reassembly: Torque to 5.9 Nm (52 in-lb)
  • Don’t force the motor onto the gear.

Step 8: Install the new regulator

  • Place the regulator into the door and hand-start the mounting bolts using a 10mm socket.
  • Tighten the regulator bolts evenly.
  • Torque to 8.7 Nm (77 in-lb)
  • Plug in the motor connector until it clicks.

Step 9: Reattach the glass to the regulator

  • Carefully lower the glass (remove some tape as needed) until it seats into the regulator clamps/attachments.
  • Install the glass-to-regulator bolts using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 7.2 Nm (64 in-lb)
  • Remove all painter’s tape (1.5") from the glass and door frame.

Step 10: Reinstall the moisture barrier and door panel

  • Press the moisture barrier back onto the butyl. Add butyl tape where it no longer sticks.
  • Reconnect all door electrical connectors.
  • Hang the door panel on the top ledge first, then press in the clips around the perimeter.
  • Reinstall screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.

âś… After Repair

  • Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Key ON, test the window up/down while watching for binding or popping noises.
  • If the auto-up/down doesn’t work, initialize the window:
    • Run the window fully down and keep holding the switch down for ~5 seconds.
    • Run the window fully up and keep holding the switch up for ~5 seconds.
  • Check that the door locks, handle, and speaker (if equipped) work before you fully finish.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor) per rear door

DIY Cost: $80-$250 (parts only) per rear door

You Save: $270-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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