🔧 Journey - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the cable-and-track assembly that raises and lowers your rear door glass. When it fails, the window may drop, move crooked, grind/click, or stop moving.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per rear door)

Assumption: power rear windows; common fastener torques listed.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the glass and regulator cables; they can pinch hard.
• ⚠️ Support the window glass before disconnecting it from the regulator.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable if you’ll unplug the window motor or have the switch connected while hands are inside the door.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves; the inner door metal edges are sharp.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Trim panel removal tool
• Small flat screwdriver
• Phillips screwdriver
• Torx T20 driver
• Torx T30 driver
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 6" socket extension
• Torque wrench (in-lb or low-range Nm)
• Painters tape (1"-2" wide)
• Razor blade or plastic scraper
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work light
• Pop rivet gun (specialty)
• Electric drill with 1/4" drill bit

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator (left or right, as needed) - Qty: 1
• Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (only if not included or if motor is faulty)
• Door panel retainer clips - Qty: 1 set (recommended)
• Butyl tape (weatherstrip adhesive for vapor barrier) - Qty: 1
• 1/4" aluminum rivets (if your door uses rivets) - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Journey on level ground and remove the key.
• Lower the rear window until you can access the glass-to-regulator fasteners through the door openings (if it still moves).
• If the window is stuck, plan to manually move the glass once the panel is off (you’ll tape it in place before unbolting).
• Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket if you’ll be unplugging the motor or cycling the switch near your hands.
• Have painters tape ready to hold the glass up on the outside of the door frame.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

• Use a small flat screwdriver to gently pop off the small trim covers hiding screws (typically in the pull handle area).
• Remove exposed screws using a Phillips screwdriver and/or Torx T20 driver (varies by door panel).
• Use a trim panel removal tool (a flat pry tool that pops plastic clips without breaking them) to release the panel clips around the edges.
• Lift the panel upward to unhook it from the window sill.
• Unplug electrical connectors using a small flat screwdriver to release the locking tabs.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier (water shield)

• Carefully peel the plastic vapor barrier back using a plastic scraper or razor blade.
• Try to keep the butyl adhesive (sticky black strip) reusable; don’t tear the barrier.
• Go slow—this prevents future water leaks.

Step 3: Support the window glass

• If the glass is still attached and movable, position it near the top of the door frame by hand.
• Use painters tape on the outside of the glass, over the top of the door frame, and down the other side to hold the glass up.
• Add 2–3 strips of tape so the glass can’t slide down.

Step 4: Detach the glass from the regulator

• Look through the door access holes for the glass clamp/fasteners.
• Remove the glass-to-regulator fasteners using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Once free, gently push the glass fully up and re-check your painters tape support.
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) on reassembly.

Step 5: Unplug the regulator motor (if equipped/accessible)

• Disconnect the window motor electrical connector by releasing the lock tab with a small flat screwdriver.
• If your battery is still connected, disconnect it now using a 10mm socket.

Step 6: Remove the regulator and motor assembly

• Locate the regulator mounting points (usually multiple bolts or rivets on the inner door skin).
• If bolted: remove fasteners using a 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• If riveted: drill the rivet heads using an electric drill with 1/4" drill bit, then push the remaining rivet body through with a small flat screwdriver and pull it out with needle-nose pliers.
• Maneuver the regulator out through the largest access opening while keeping cables from snagging.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) for regulator mounting bolts on reassembly.

Step 7: Transfer or install the motor (if required)

• If your new regulator doesn’t include a motor, remove the old motor from the regulator using a Torx T30 driver.
• Install the motor onto the new regulator using a Torx T30 driver.
• Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs) for motor screws.

Step 8: Install the new regulator

• Feed the new regulator into the door and align it with mounting holes.
• If bolted: start all fasteners by hand, then tighten using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• If riveted: install new rivets using a pop rivet gun (specialty) with 1/4" rivets.
• Reconnect the motor connector by pushing it in until it clicks.

Step 9: Reattach the glass to the regulator

• Carefully lower the glass (remove some tape if needed) until the glass aligns with the regulator clamp/bolt holes.
• Install the glass fasteners using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
• Remove all painters tape once the glass is secured.

Step 10: Test window operation before reassembly

• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Turn the key on and run the window fully down and fully up using the switch.
• Listen for binding/clicking and watch that the glass stays straight in the tracks.
• If the glass tilts, loosen the glass fasteners with a 10mm socket, align the glass, then re-torque.

Step 11: Reinstall the vapor barrier

• Press the vapor barrier back into place.
• Add butyl tape anywhere the original adhesive is damaged or no longer sticky.
• A good seal prevents wet carpets.

Step 12: Reinstall the door trim panel

• Reconnect electrical connectors (they should click).
• Hang the panel on the upper window channel, then press the clips in around the edges using firm hand pressure.
• Reinstall screws using a Torx T20 driver and/or Phillips screwdriver.
• Snap trim covers back in using hand pressure.

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✅ After Repair

• Run the rear window up/down 5–10 times to confirm smooth movement and no popping noises.
• Check the outer and inner window seals for proper contact with the glass.
• Spray water lightly on the outside of the window and confirm no water leaks into the door panel area.
• If the auto-up/down feature acts odd (if equipped), cycle the window fully down and fully up once to re-learn.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor, per rear door)

DIY Cost: $70-$220 (parts only, per rear door)

You Save: $280-$530 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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