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2016 Chrysler Town & Country
2016 Chrysler Town & Country
Limited - V6 3.6L
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How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2016 Chrysler Town & Country

Step-by-step rear door window regulator/motor install with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2016 Chrysler Town & Country

Step-by-step rear door window regulator/motor install with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Town & Country - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the mechanism that moves the rear door glass up and down. Replacement involves removing the rear door trim panel, securing the glass, swapping the regulator/motor assembly, then reassembling and testing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per side)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧤 Keep hands clear of the regulator scissor/cable path; it can pinch hard.
  • 🕶️ Wear safety glasses when prying clips or drilling rivets.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm wrench before unplugging the window motor.
  • 🪟 Support the glass with tape before loosening the glass clamps so it cannot drop.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 10mm wrench
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3" extension (1/4" drive)
  • 10mm socket (1/4" drive)
  • 8mm socket (1/4" drive)
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Torx T25 screwdriver
  • Phillips #2 screwdriver
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Plastic pry tool set
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Painters tape (2")
  • Work light
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)
  • Drill with 1/4" drill bit
  • Pop rivet gun (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear window regulator with motor (Left/Driver side) - Qty: 1
  • Rear window regulator with motor (Right/Passenger side) - Qty: 1
  • Door trim panel retainers/clips - Qty: 1 set
  • Butyl tape (vapor barrier adhesive) - Qty: 1
  • 1/4" aluminum pop rivets - Qty: 1 set

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🧱 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and use wheel chocks.
  • 🔌 If the window still moves, use the switch to lower the glass until the clamp bolts are accessible through the door access holes, then turn ignition OFF.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm wrench.
  • 🧠 Assumption: Some rear regulators are bolted; some are riveted. Steps below cover both.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

  • Use a plastic pry tool set to pop off the trim cover at the inner door handle/armrest area.
  • Remove visible screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver and/or Torx T20 screwdriver (screw types vary by trim location).
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to pop the perimeter clips free, working around the panel.
  • Lift the panel upward to unhook it from the window ledge, then unplug connectors (window switch/courtesy light) by hand.
  • Tip: Pull near each clip, not the middle.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier (water shield)

  • Carefully peel the plastic vapor barrier back using a plastic pry tool set.
  • Preserve the sticky butyl; if it’s messy or torn, plan to reseal with butyl tape.

Step 3: Secure the glass so it cannot fall

  • Apply multiple strips of painters tape (2") from the outside of the glass over the door frame to hold the glass up.
  • If the glass is loose, support it by hand while you add tape.

Step 4: Disconnect the window motor connector

  • Unplug the window motor electrical connector by hand; use needle-nose pliers only if needed for the lock tab (don’t crush it).

Step 5: Separate the glass from the regulator

  • Through the access openings, loosen (do not fully remove) the glass clamp fasteners using a 10mm socket (1/4" drive).
  • With the clamps loosened, lift the glass fully up by hand and add more painters tape (2") to keep it parked.

Step 6: Remove the regulator/motor assembly

  • If the regulator is bolted in: remove fasteners using a 10mm socket (1/4" drive) and 1/4" drive ratchet.
  • If the regulator is riveted in: drill rivet heads using a drill with 1/4" drill bit, then push rivet bodies through with a trim clip removal tool or needle-nose pliers.
  • Support the assembly with one hand and maneuver it out through the large access opening.

Step 7: Install the new regulator/motor

  • Position the new assembly in the door and align mounting holes.
  • If bolted: install bolts finger-tight, then Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) using a torque wrench (inch-pound).
  • If riveted: install new rivets using a pop rivet gun (specialty), ensuring the regulator is tight and flush.

Step 8: Reattach the glass to the regulator

  • Lower the glass carefully into the clamps (remove tape as needed) and ensure the glass sits evenly in both clamps.
  • Tighten the clamp fasteners using a 10mm socket (1/4" drive).
  • Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) using a torque wrench (inch-pound).

Step 9: Reconnect power and function-test before reassembly

  • Reconnect the window motor connector by hand.
  • Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm wrench.
  • Turn ignition ON and test window up/down while watching for smooth travel and no cable grinding.
  • Turn ignition OFF and disconnect the battery negative terminal again using a 10mm wrench before reinstalling trim.

Step 10: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel

  • Reseat the vapor barrier; add butyl tape where needed (press firmly by hand).
  • Reconnect door panel electrical connectors by hand.
  • Hang the panel on the top lip first, then press clips in around the edges.
  • Reinstall screws using a Phillips #2 screwdriver and/or Torx T25 screwdriver.

✅ After Repair

  • 🪟 Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm wrench.
  • 🔍 Cycle the rear window fully down/up 5 times and listen for clicking, popping, or cable slap.
  • 💧 Check the vapor barrier seal by lightly spraying water on the window and verifying no water drips inside the door panel area.
  • 🧼 Confirm the door panel is tight and all clips are seated (no rattles over bumps).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor, per rear door)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 (parts only, per rear door)

You Save: $260-$480 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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