🔧 RDX - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the mechanism that raises and lowers the rear door glass. Replacement is needed when the window drops, binds, makes grinding noises, or the motor runs but the glass doesn’t move.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per door)

Assumption: rear regulator is bolt-in (no rivets).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door wiring to reduce short-circuit risk.
• ⚠️ Support the glass before loosening regulator clamps so it doesn’t drop and shatter.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling on wiring; press connector tabs and unplug gently.
• ⚠️ If you see any yellow connectors, do not probe them (SRS-related).
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves; door edges are sharp.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Trim removal tool set
• Panel clip pliers
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Small flathead screwdriver
• 10mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 1/4" ratchet
• 6" socket extension
• Torque wrench (in-lb or small Nm range)
• Painters tape (1"-2" wide)
• Pick tool
• Magnetic parts tray
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1
• Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (only if not included)
• Door panel retaining clips - Qty: 1 set (as needed)
• Butyl adhesive (vapor barrier seal) - Qty: 1 (as needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and turn the ignition OFF.
• Lower the rear window if it still moves (helps access the glass clamps).
• Open the rear door fully and keep it stable.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
• Have painters tape ready to hold the glass up.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

• Use a trim removal tool set to pry up the window switch panel and unplug the connector.
• Use a small flathead screwdriver to pop off the small trim covers hiding screws (usually in the pull handle and near the inner door handle).
• Remove the exposed screws using a Phillips screwdriver #2 and/or 8mm socket (varies by fastener).
• Use a trim removal tool set to pop the door panel clips around the perimeter.
• Lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge, then unplug any remaining connectors.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier (water shield)

• Use a pick tool and your fingers to peel the vapor barrier back slowly.
• Try to keep the butyl adhesive on the door, not on the barrier. Go slow to avoid tearing.
• If the adhesive is messy or won’t reseal later, plan to use butyl adhesive during reassembly.

Step 3: Secure the glass in the “up” position

• Reconnect the window switch temporarily (if needed) and reconnect the battery briefly using a 10mm socket so you can position the glass clamps where you can reach them.
• Turn ignition ON, move the glass until the clamp bolts are visible through the access holes, then turn ignition OFF.
• Disconnect the battery negative again using a 10mm socket.
• Use painters tape (1"-2" wide) from the outside of the glass over the door frame (several strips) to hold the glass up.

Step 4: Separate the glass from the regulator

• Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet to loosen (do not fully remove unless required) the glass clamp bolts on the regulator.
• With the clamps loosened, carefully guide the glass fully up by hand.
• Add more painters tape so the glass cannot slide down.
• Torque on reassembly: Torque to factory specification

Step 5: Unplug and remove the regulator (and motor if needed)

• Unplug the regulator motor connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight out.
• Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" socket extension to remove the regulator mounting bolts.
• If transferring the motor, remove the motor fasteners using the appropriate socket/screwdriver you removed earlier and move the motor to the new regulator.
• Maneuver the regulator assembly out through the large access opening in the door.
• Torque on reassembly: Torque to factory specification

Step 6: Install the new regulator

• Guide the new regulator into the door opening and align it to the mounting points.
• Start all mounting bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Tighten using a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet, then finish with a torque wrench.
• Reconnect the motor electrical connector until it clicks.
• Torque: Torque to factory specification

Step 7: Reattach the glass to the regulator

• Remove some painters tape so you can lower the glass carefully into the regulator clamps.
• Make sure the glass sits evenly in both clamps (not crooked).
• Tighten the clamp bolts with a 10mm socket, then finish with a torque wrench.
• Torque: Torque to factory specification

Step 8: Function-check before reassembly

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Turn ignition ON and run the rear window fully down and fully up several times using the switch.
• Listen for clicking or binding and watch that the glass stays aligned in the channels.
• Turn ignition OFF and disconnect the battery again with a 10mm socket before reinstalling the vapor barrier and trim panel.

Step 9: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel

• Press the vapor barrier back into the butyl adhesive. Add butyl adhesive if it won’t stick.
• Reconnect all door panel electrical connectors.
• Hook the top of the door panel onto the window ledge, then press around the edges to seat the clips.
• Reinstall screws using a Phillips screwdriver #2 and/or 8mm socket, then reinstall trim covers with a trim removal tool set.
• Reconnect the battery negative using a 10mm socket.
• Torque: Torque to factory specification

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✅ After Repair

• Verify the rear window goes fully up and seals evenly against the weatherstrip.
• Check that the window moves smoothly without tilting or popping.
• Confirm the door lock, speaker, and window switch all work.
• If the window has one-touch behavior and it acts “confused,” relearn it by holding the switch fully UP for 2-3 seconds after it reaches the top.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor) per rear door

DIY Cost: $90-$250 (parts only) per rear door

You Save: $260-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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