How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2014 Subaru Forester (Left or Right)
Step-by-step rear door panel removal, regulator/motor swap, tools list, and torque specs
How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2014 Subaru Forester (Left or Right)
Step-by-step rear door panel removal, regulator/motor swap, tools list, and torque specs


đź”§ Forester - Rear Window Regulator Replacement
The rear window regulator is the scissor/cable mechanism inside the door that moves the glass up and down. Replacement means removing the rear door trim panel, loosening the glass from the regulator, swapping the regulator (and motor if included), then reassembling and testing.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (first time)
Quick questions (so I give the exact right steps):
- 🔎 Which rear door: left (driver-side) or right (passenger-side)?
- 🔎 Are you replacing the regulator only, or regulator + motor assembly?
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before unplugging door wiring to reduce the risk of short circuits.
- ⚠️ Support the window glass with tape before loosening the clamps so it can’t drop and shatter.
- ⚠️ Use gloves—inner door metal edges are sharp.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the regulator arms/cables when cycling the window.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4")
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Trim panel removal tool (specialty)
- Pick tool (specialty)
- Torque wrench (in-lb or low Nm range)
- Painters tape (1" or wider)
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Work light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear window regulator - Qty: 1
- Rear window motor - Qty: 1 (only if not included with regulator)
- Door panel trim clips - Qty: 4-10 (as needed)
- Butyl tape (vapor barrier adhesive) - Qty: 1 (as needed)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and turn the ignition off.
- Lower the rear window until you can access the glass-to-regulator clamp bolts through the door access holes. If your window is stuck up, you can still do the job, but you’ll remove the regulator first and free the glass later.
- Open the rear door you’re working on fully.
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and isolate it so it can’t spring back. Prevents accidental shorts.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear door switch bezel
- Use a trim panel removal tool (specialty) to gently pry up the window switch bezel.
- Unplug the switch connector(s) by pressing the lock tab (use a pick tool (specialty) if needed).
Step 2: Remove the rear door trim panel (door card)
- Remove the visible screws (typically in the pull handle/armrest area) using a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Starting at the bottom edge, use a trim panel removal tool (specialty) to pop the panel clips free, working around the perimeter.
- Lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge.
- Disconnect any remaining connectors and set the panel aside.
Step 3: Peel back the vapor barrier
- Carefully peel back the plastic moisture barrier (vapor barrier). Use a pick tool (specialty) to help separate sticky butyl without tearing the plastic.
- Do not discard it—this keeps water off the electronics and carpet.
Step 4: Secure the glass
- Use painters tape (1" or wider) to tape the glass to the door frame (run multiple strips from outside glass over the top of the door frame to the inside).
- If you can access the glass, lightly push the glass up by hand until fully seated, then add more tape.
Step 5: Separate the glass from the regulator
- Through the access holes, locate the two glass clamp bolts.
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet and extension to loosen/remove the clamp bolts.
- Torque on install: Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs)
Step 6: Unplug and remove the window motor (if transferring motor)
- Unplug the window motor connector (press lock tab; use a pick tool (specialty) if needed).
- If your new part is regulator-only, remove the motor from the old regulator using a 10mm socket (or the fastener type present).
- Torque on install: Torque to 6.0 Nm (53 in-lbs)
Step 7: Remove the regulator assembly
- Remove the regulator mounting bolts using a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and extension.
- Carefully snake the regulator out through the large access opening.
- Torque on install: Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs)
Step 8: Install the new regulator (and motor if separate)
- Slide the new regulator into the door and line up the mounting holes.
- Hand-start all bolts first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Torque: Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs)
- If transferring the motor, install it now and tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Motor torque: Torque to 6.0 Nm (53 in-lbs)
Step 9: Reattach the glass to the regulator
- Lower/position the regulator clamps to meet the glass. Temporarily reconnect the switch to move the regulator if needed.
- Start the clamp bolts by hand, then tighten using a 10mm socket.
- Torque: Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs)
Step 10: Function test before reassembly
- Reconnect the window switch and reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Cycle the window up/down slowly and listen for binding or clicking.
- If the window tilts, loosen the glass clamp bolts with a 10mm socket, re-seat the glass evenly in the run channels, then re-torque.
- Disconnect the battery negative again with a 10mm socket before final reassembly.
Step 11: Reinstall the vapor barrier
- Press the vapor barrier back into the butyl adhesive.
- If it won’t stick, apply butyl tape and press firmly by hand.
Step 12: Reinstall the door trim panel
- Reconnect electrical connectors.
- Hook the top of the panel onto the window ledge, then press clips in around the edges by hand.
- Reinstall screws with a Phillips #2 screwdriver.
- Reinstall the switch bezel and plug in the connector(s).
âś… After Repair
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Test the rear window from both the rear switch and the driver master switch.
- Confirm the glass seals evenly at the top and doesn’t rattle on bumps.
- If the auto-up/down feature acts odd, cycle the window fully down and fully up a few times to help it relearn.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$700 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$350 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















