🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the track-and-cable (or scissor) assembly that raises and lowers your rear window glass. When it fails, the window may move crooked, get stuck, or fall into the door. You’ll remove the rear door panel, detach the glass from the regulator, then swap the regulator (and motor if included).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per door)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable before working in the door (side airbag wiring is in/near the door).
• ⚠️ Wait at least 2 minutes after disconnecting the battery before unplugging any door connectors.
• ⚠️ Support the window glass at all times so it can’t drop and shatter.
• ⚠️ Do not turn the ignition on with the door airbag/controls unplugged.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves (sharp metal edges inside the door).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Trim removal tool set
• Phillips screwdriver
• Torx T20 driver
• Torx T30 driver
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 3" extension (1/4" drive)
• Pick tool
• Painter’s tape (2" wide)
• Torque wrench (inch-pound, 20–200 in-lb range)
• Torque wrench (foot-pound, 10–80 ft-lb range)
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator - Qty: 1
• Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (only if not included with regulator)
• Rear door panel retainer clip set - Qty: 1 (recommended)
• Butyl door vapor barrier sealer - Qty: 1 (if the original won’t re-stick)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and use wheel chocks.
• Lower the affected rear window to about halfway if it still moves (this helps access the glass-to-regulator bolts).
• Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal. Tuck it aside so it can’t spring back.
• Have your painter’s tape ready to hold the glass up in the door frame.
• Quick check: Are you replacing left rear or right rear, and is your new regulator with motor or regulator only? (Either way, the steps below cover both.)

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

• Use a trim removal tool set (a plastic pry tool to avoid scratches) to gently pry up the window switch bezel/trim.
• Unplug the window switch connector using a pick tool to lift the lock tab if needed.
• Remove visible screws:
  • Use a Phillips screwdriver or Torx T20 driver (varies by screw) for the pull-handle/armrest screws.
  • Use a 7mm socket for any 7mm door panel screws along the bottom/edge.
• Pop the door panel clips free: use the trim removal tool set around the perimeter, then lift the panel straight up and off the window ledge.
• Disconnect the door handle cable:
  • Use the pick tool to release the cable housing clip, then unhook the cable end.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier (water shield)

• Carefully peel back the vapor barrier using your hands and a trim removal tool set.
• Go slow—this sealer is sticky.
• If the butyl won’t re-stick later, plan to use butyl door vapor barrier sealer during reassembly.

Step 3: Detach the window glass from the regulator

• If the window is not already positioned so you can see the glass clamp bolts through the access holes, temporarily plug the switch back in, reconnect the battery briefly, and move the window to access. Then disconnect battery again with the 10mm socket.
• Support the glass:
  • Use painter’s tape (2" wide) across the top of the door frame and onto the glass (use multiple strips).
• Remove/loosen the glass-to-regulator clamp bolts:
  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the clamp bolts (typically two) through the access holes.
• Lift the glass fully up by hand, then add more painter’s tape to hold it securely in the fully-up position.

Step 4: Unplug the regulator motor and remove the regulator assembly

• Unplug the motor electrical connector (press the tab; use a pick tool if the lock is stubborn).
• Remove the regulator fasteners:
  • Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension to remove the regulator mounting bolts.
• Carefully maneuver the regulator out through the large access opening in the door.

Step 5: Transfer the motor (only if your replacement is regulator-only)

• Hold the old regulator steady on a bench/floor.
• Use a Torx T30 driver to remove the motor screws.
• Install the motor onto the new regulator and tighten evenly.
• Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) for the motor screws.

Step 6: Install the new regulator and reconnect

• Slide the new regulator into the door and line it up with the mounting holes.
• Start all bolts by hand first (prevents cross-threading).
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the regulator mounting bolts.
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb) for regulator mounting bolts.
• Reconnect the motor electrical connector (make sure it clicks and locks).

Step 7: Reattach the glass to the regulator

• Remove some tape, then carefully lower the glass by hand until it sits in the regulator clamps.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the glass clamp bolts.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lb) for glass clamp bolts.
• Remove all painter’s tape once the glass is secured.

Step 8: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel

• Press the vapor barrier back into the butyl sealer. Add butyl door vapor barrier sealer if needed.
• Reconnect the door handle cable (hook cable end, then snap the housing clip in place).
• Hang the door panel on the top window ledge, then press the clips in around the edges by hand.
• Reinstall screws using the 7mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, and/or Torx T20 driver as removed.
• Torque to 2 Nm (18 in-lb) for small trim/handle screws (snug, not tight).
• Reconnect the window switch connector and snap the switch trim back in using the trim removal tool set.

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✅ After Repair

• Reconnect the battery negative terminal using the 10mm socket.
• Test the window:
  • Run it fully down and fully up 3 times.
  • Listen for clicking/grinding and check for smooth, straight movement.
• If the auto-up/auto-down acts weird, repeat full down/full up cycles to help re-learn the stops.
• Verify the door handle works from inside and outside before you close the door.
• Check that the vapor barrier is sealed (prevents water leaks and wind noise).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$250 (parts only)

You Save: $260-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.