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2014 Ford Fusion
2014 Ford Fusion
Energi SE - Inline 4 2.0L
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Ford Fusion Rear Window Regulator Replacement

Ford Fusion Rear Window Regulator Replacement

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
T20
T20
Torx Star
T25
T25
Torx Star
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How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2014 Ford Fusion (Both Rear Doors)

Step-by-step rear door panel removal, regulator swap, tools list, parts, and torque specs

How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2014 Ford Fusion (Both Rear Doors)

Step-by-step rear door panel removal, regulator swap, tools list, parts, and torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Fusion - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

You’ll remove the rear door trim panel, support the window glass, then swap the window regulator (the cable-and-track assembly that moves the glass up/down). Regulators usually fail when the window won’t move, moves crooked, or you hear grinding/clicking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per door)

Assumption: your Fusion uses a bolt-in regulator (not riveted).


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Turn the car OFF and keep the key fob 15+ feet away.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable before unplugging door wiring.
  • ⚠️ Support the window glass with tape so it can’t fall.
  • ⚠️ Wear gloves—inner door metal edges are sharp.
  • ⚠️ Don’t tear the vapor barrier (plastic sheet); it prevents water leaks.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" ratchet
  • 6" extension for 1/4" ratchet
  • Torx T20 screwdriver
  • Torx T25 screwdriver
  • Trim panel removal tool (specialty)
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Painters tape 1" wide
  • Pick tool (specialty)
  • Torque wrench 2–25 Nm (20–220 in-lbs)
  • Work light
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1
  • Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (only if not included)
  • Rear door trim panel clips - Qty: 6-12 (replace any broken)
  • Butyl tape (vapor barrier adhesive) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Open the rear door window area and wipe dirt off the glass edges.
  • Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable using a 10mm socket and wait 2 minutes before unplugging door connectors.
  • Have painters tape 1" wide ready to hold the glass up.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to gently pop off the small trim covers hiding screws in the pull handle/armrest area.
  • Remove the exposed screws with a Torx T20 screwdriver (some doors use Torx T25 screwdriver instead).
  • Use a trim panel removal tool (specialty) (a flat plastic pry tool that pops clips without damage) to release the panel clips around the edges.
  • Lift the door panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge.
  • Unplug electrical connectors using the pick tool (specialty) to lift connector tabs if needed. Don’t pull on wires.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier (water shield)

  • Peel the plastic vapor barrier back slowly by hand.
  • If the butyl adhesive stretches, use the pick tool (specialty) to help separate it without ripping the plastic.
  • Stick the barrier to itself temporarily so it stays clean.

Step 3: Position and secure the window glass

  • If the regulator still moves at all, reconnect the window switch briefly and turn the car ON (Ready not required) to lower the glass until you can see the glass-to-regulator clamp bolts through the access holes.
  • Turn the car OFF again, unplug the switch, and keep the key fob away.
  • Secure the glass in the fully-up position with painters tape 1" wide from the outside of the glass over the top of the door frame (use 3–5 strips).

Step 4: Detach the glass from the regulator

  • Loosen (do not fully remove) the glass clamp bolts using a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" extension for 1/4" ratchet.
  • Carefully lift the glass fully up by hand and add more painters tape 1" wide if needed so it cannot drop.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) for the glass clamp bolts (best-effort spec).

Step 5: Unbolt and remove the regulator/motor assembly

  • Unplug the window motor electrical connector.
  • Remove the regulator and motor mounting bolts using a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" extension for 1/4" ratchet.
  • Support the regulator as the last bolt comes out, then work the assembly out through the large access opening.
  • When reinstalling later: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) for regulator/motor bolts (best-effort spec).

Step 6: Transfer the motor (if your new regulator doesn’t include it)

  • Remove the motor screws/bolts from the old regulator using a Torx T25 screwdriver (some variants use 10mm socket).
  • Move the motor onto the new regulator in the same position.
  • Tighten evenly: Torque to 4 Nm (35 in-lbs) (best-effort spec).

Step 7: Install the new regulator

  • Slide the new regulator into the door and line up mounting holes.
  • Hand-start all bolts, then tighten with a 10mm socket and torque wrench 2–25 Nm (20–220 in-lbs).
  • Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) for regulator/motor mounting bolts (best-effort spec).

Step 8: Reattach the glass to the regulator

  • Reconnect the window motor connector.
  • Temporarily reconnect the window switch, reconnect the 12V negative cable using a 10mm socket, then turn the car ON.
  • Use the switch to raise/lower the regulator carrier into position under the glass clamps.
  • Turn the car OFF, disconnect the 12V negative cable again with a 10mm socket, then tighten the glass clamp bolts with a 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) for the glass clamp bolts (best-effort spec).
  • Remove the painters tape 1" wide from the glass.

Step 9: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel

  • Press the vapor barrier back into place; add butyl tape anywhere it won’t reseal.
  • Reconnect all door electrical connectors.
  • Hook the top of the door panel onto the window ledge, then press clips in around the edges by hand.
  • Reinstall screws using a Torx T20 screwdriver or Torx T25 screwdriver (whichever came out).

Step 10: Restore 12V power

  • Reconnect the 12V battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Tighten securely: Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs) (best-effort spec).

✅ After Repair

  • Cycle the rear window fully down and fully up 5 times to confirm smooth travel and no clicking.
  • Check the glass alignment at the top seal—no gaps, no wind noise.
  • Spray water on the outside of the window and confirm no water leaks inside (vapor barrier seal test).
  • If the window reverses direction on the way up, stop and recheck glass clamp tightness and regulator alignment.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹8,000–₹18,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹3,500–₹10,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹4,500–₹8,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000–₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.5 hours.


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