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2016 Nissan Juke
2011 - 2016 Nissan Juke
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  • Guides
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  • Nissan Juke
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  • 2016
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  • How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2011-2016 Nissan Juke (Left or Right)
2011 nissan juke window motor and regulator replacement

2011 nissan juke window motor and regulator replacement

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How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2011-2016 Nissan Juke (Left or Right)

Step-by-step rear door panel removal, glass support, parts/tools list, and factory torque spec notes

How to Replace the Rear Window Regulator on a 2011-2016 Nissan Juke (Left or Right)

Step-by-step rear door panel removal, glass support, parts/tools list, and factory torque spec notes for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

Orion
Orion

🔧 Juke - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

A rear window regulator is the lift mechanism that raises and lowers the door glass. When it fails, the window may move crooked, get stuck, fall into the door, or make grinding/clicking noises.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per side)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental window movement and pinched fingers.
  • ⚠️ Support the glass before unbolting it; the glass can drop suddenly and shatter.
  • ⚠️ Wear cut-resistant gloves; door-inner metal edges are sharp.
  • ⚠️ Keep the vapor barrier intact; it prevents water leaks into the cabin.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Cut-resistant work gloves
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Plastic pry tool set
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3" extension (1/4" drive)
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)
  • Painter's tape (1" or wider)
  • Pick tool
  • Magnetic parts tray
  • Window glass suction cup (specialty)
  • Butyl scraper or plastic razor blade
  • Flashlight

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear window regulator assembly (left or right, as needed) - Qty: 1
  • Rear window regulator motor (if not included with regulator) - Qty: 1
  • Door trim panel clips - Qty: 6-12
  • Butyl seal tape (vapor barrier adhesive) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, key off, and keep the rear door you’re working on fully open.
  • Lower the rear window to about halfway if possible; this usually lines the glass clamps up with the access holes.
  • Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery terminal and isolate it.
  • Take photos before unplugging connectors.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

  • Use a plastic pry tool set to gently pry up the window switch panel and unplug it (press the locking tab with a pick tool if needed).
  • Remove visible screws using a Phillips screwdriver #2 (commonly behind the door pull/handle trim).
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to pop the panel clips free around the edges.
  • Lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge, then unplug any remaining connectors with a small flat-blade screwdriver to release locks.

Step 2: Peel back the vapor barrier

  • Carefully peel the plastic vapor barrier back using a plastic razor blade or butyl scraper.
  • Do not tear it; if the butyl is messy, set it aside and plan to use butyl seal tape during reassembly.
  • Stick it to itself to keep it clean.

Step 3: Support the glass

  • Use a window glass suction cup (specialty) on the glass for a safe grip.
  • Add 2–4 long strips of painter's tape (1" or wider) from the glass over the door frame to hold the glass up once it’s unclamped.

Step 4: Unclamp the glass from the regulator

  • Shine a flashlight through the door access holes to locate the glass-to-regulator clamp bolts.
  • Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension to loosen/remove the clamp bolts.
  • Once loose, slide the glass fully up by hand and secure it with extra painter's tape.
  • Torque on reassembly: Torque to Nissan factory specification (glass clamp bolts)

Step 5: Disconnect the regulator motor electrical connector

  • Locate the regulator motor connector inside the door.
  • Press the lock tab (use a pick tool if needed) and unplug the connector.

Step 6: Remove the regulator assembly

  • Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the regulator mounting bolts.
  • If the motor is separate, remove its fasteners using the same 10mm socket and transfer it to the new regulator.
  • Rotate and guide the regulator out through the largest access opening.
  • Torque on reassembly: Torque to Nissan factory specification (regulator and motor fasteners)

Step 7: Install the new regulator

  • Feed the new regulator into the door the same way the old one came out.
  • Start all bolts by hand first (prevents cross-threading), then tighten using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
  • Plug the motor connector back in until it clicks.
  • Torque: Torque to Nissan factory specification (regulator mounting bolts)

Step 8: Reattach the glass to the regulator

  • Remove a little tape so the glass can lower carefully into position.
  • Use the window glass suction cup (specialty) to guide the glass straight down into the regulator clamps.
  • Install/tighten the clamp bolts using a 10mm socket and torque wrench.
  • Torque: Torque to Nissan factory specification (glass clamp bolts)
  • Make sure glass sits evenly in the run channels.

Step 9: Function test before reassembly

  • Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Temporarily plug in the window switch and run the window up/down while watching the regulator through the access hole.
  • If it binds, stop immediately and re-check glass alignment in the channels.
  • Disconnect the battery negative again using a 10mm socket before reinstalling the vapor barrier and panel.

Step 10: Reinstall vapor barrier and door panel

  • Press the vapor barrier back onto the butyl. If it won’t stick, apply butyl seal tape and press firmly by hand.
  • Reconnect all electrical connectors.
  • Hang the door panel on the upper lip first, then press clips in around the edges by hand.
  • Reinstall screws using a Phillips screwdriver #2.
  • Snap the switch panel back in using your hands and a plastic pry tool set if needed.

✅ After Repair

  • Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Cycle the rear window fully down and fully up several times, listening for clicking or rubbing.
  • Check the outer/inner weatherstrips for proper seating to prevent wind noise and water leaks.
  • If the window has one-touch or pinch protection and it acts weird, perform initialization: hold the switch to fully raise the window, then keep holding for 3–5 seconds; repeat for fully down.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


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