🔧 CR-V - Radiator Hose Replacement

You can replace the radiator hoses on your CR-V at home with basic tools, as long as you work carefully and keep everything clean. You’ll drain some coolant, remove the old hose, fit a new one, then refill and bleed air from the cooling system.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1–2 hours (per hose)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🔥 Only work on the cooling system when the engine is completely cool; hot coolant can cause serious burns.
• 🧤 Coolant is poisonous; avoid skin contact and keep away from children and pets.
• 😷 Work in a well‑ventilated area and avoid breathing coolant mist or vapors.
• 🚗 Set the parking brake and keep the transmission in Park; chock rear wheels if lifting the front.
• 🔌 Battery disconnection is not strictly required, but disconnect the negative terminal if you might bump the cooling fan; it can turn on automatically.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, set of 2)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension 6"
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Slip-joint pliers 10"
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Plastic trim removal tool set
• Drain pan 10+ liter capacity
• Small funnel
• Coolant funnel / spill-free funnel kit (specialty)
• Utility knife or hose pick tool (specialty)
• Shop towels / rags
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose (engine to top of radiator) - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose (engine to bottom of radiator) - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps (spring or worm type, matching size) - Qty: 4
• Engine coolant (Honda Type 2, pre-mixed 50/50) - Qty: 5–6 liters
• Replacement plastic clips for under-engine splash shield - Qty: 6–10
• Battery terminal protector spray - Qty: 1 (optional)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the CR-V on level ground, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in Park.
• Let the engine cool completely; it should be cold to the touch (ideally sitting for several hours).
• Open the hood and locate the upper radiator hose (top of radiator to engine) and lower radiator hose (bottom of radiator to engine).
• If you plan to disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (-) cable and tuck it safely aside.
• Have your drain pan and rags ready before loosening anything; some coolant will spill even if you drain first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front (if needed)

• If you want more working room underneath, use a floor jack (3-ton) to lift the front at the front jacking point.
• Support the vehicle with jack stands under the side pinch welds; never rely on the jack alone.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• More space makes the lower hose much easier.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield

• Use a plastic trim removal tool to pop out the plastic clips holding the under-engine splash shield.
• Remove any 10mm bolts with a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.

Step 3: Drain the coolant

• Place a drain pan (10+ liter) under the radiator drain area (bottom of radiator, passenger side).
• Remove the coolant reservoir cap by hand, then the radiator cap by hand to let air in.
• Locate the radiator drain plug (petcock); use a flathead screwdriver if needed to turn it counterclockwise and start draining.
• Allow coolant to drain fully, then close the drain plug by hand and snug it with the flathead screwdriver. Do not overtighten plastic plugs.

Step 4: Loosen clamps on the upper radiator hose

• At the top of the radiator, locate the clamp on the upper hose.
• If it’s a spring clamp, use hose clamp pliers or slip-joint pliers to squeeze the tabs and slide the clamp back along the hose.
• If it’s a screw-type clamp, use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the screw and slide the clamp back.
• Repeat at the engine side of the same hose.
• Move clamps far enough back so hose can slide off.

Step 5: Remove the upper radiator hose

• Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose. If it’s stuck, carefully work a hose pick tool or the tip of a flathead screwdriver under the edge to free it.
• Pull the hose off the radiator fitting and aim it toward the drain pan; a little more coolant may come out.
• Repeat at the engine side and remove the hose completely.
• Do not pry hard on plastic radiator necks.

Step 6: Clean fittings and install the new upper hose

• Wipe the radiator and engine hose fittings clean with shop towels so they are smooth and free of old rubber.
• Slide new clamps onto the new upper hose first.
• Push the new hose fully onto the radiator fitting by hand until it bottoms out.
• Position the clamp 3–5 mm from the hose end and tighten:
  • For spring clamps: use hose clamp pliers to squeeze and slide into place.
  • For screw clamps: use a flathead screwdriver to tighten snugly. Snug = firm, not crushing.
• Repeat at the engine side of the hose.

Step 7: Loosen clamps on the lower radiator hose

• From underneath, locate the lower radiator hose at the bottom of the radiator and where it meets the engine.
• Use hose clamp pliers or slip-joint pliers to move spring clamps back, or a flathead screwdriver for screw clamps, just like the upper hose.
• Slide clamps well away from the hose ends.

Step 8: Remove the lower radiator hose

• Place the drain pan directly under the lower hose connection; more coolant will spill.
• Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the radiator fitting and let remaining coolant drain.
• Remove from the engine side the same way.
• Use a hose pick tool carefully if it’s really stuck, but avoid gouging the metal or plastic.

Step 9: Clean fittings and install the new lower hose

• Wipe both lower hose fittings clean with shop towels.
• Slide new clamps onto the new lower hose.
• Push the hose fully onto the radiator fitting and engine fitting by hand until fully seated.
• Position and tighten clamps using hose clamp pliers or a flathead screwdriver, same as Step 6.

Step 10: Reinstall splash shield

• Lift the under-engine splash shield back into place.
• Install any 10mm bolts with a 10mm socket and ratchet until snug.
• Push new or reused plastic clips back in using your fingers or a plastic trim tool.

Step 11: Refill the cooling system

• Make sure the radiator drain plug is fully closed (snug by hand and a slight turn with flathead screwdriver if applicable).
• Place a coolant funnel / spill-free funnel kit in the radiator neck.
• Slowly pour Honda Type 2 coolant into the radiator until it’s full.
• Fill the coolant reservoir to the “MAX” line using the funnel.
• Pour slowly to avoid trapping air.

Step 12: Bleed air from the system

• Leave the funnel in place with some extra coolant in it.
• Start the engine and set the heater to maximum hot with the fan on medium; this opens the heater core.
• Let the engine idle and occasionally rev gently to 1500–2000 rpm while watching for bubbles in the funnel.
• As the thermostat opens, the coolant level may drop; add more as needed using the funnel.
• Once bubbles stop and the upper radiator hose feels hot and firm, shut off the engine.
• Remove the funnel carefully, install the radiator cap by hand, then top off the reservoir if needed.

Step 13: Reconnect battery and lower the vehicle

• If you disconnected the battery, use a 10mm socket to reinstall and tighten the negative cable snugly.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, and lower it fully.
• Remove wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine again and check around both hoses for any leaks while it warms up.
• Let the engine reach normal temperature; verify the heater blows hot air and the temperature gauge stays in the normal range.
• After a short drive and full cool-down, recheck coolant level in the reservoir and top off to “MAX” if needed.
• Inspect under the front of the CR-V for any fresh drips or wet spots around hose connections.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220–$380 (parts + labor) for upper and lower hoses with coolant

DIY Cost: $70–$140 (parts only)

You Save: $150–$240 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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