How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty
Step-by-step upper/lower hose swap with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding, and leak checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace the Radiator Hose on a 2016 Ford F-350 Super Duty
Step-by-step upper/lower hose swap with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding, and leak checks for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 F-350 Super Duty - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. The job is mostly about safely relieving pressure, draining enough coolant, and swapping the hose without damaging the radiator/engine fittings.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
Assumption: You’re replacing either the upper or lower radiator hose on the 6.2L; steps below cover both.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off paint and away from pets; it’s toxic and slippery.
- ⚠️ Let the cooling fan stop completely before working near it.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 3 gallons)
- Funnel
- Shop rags
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Slip-joint pliers
- Pick tool (specialty)
- Flathead screwdriver
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3" extension
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Engine coolant (Ford-approved, pre-mixed 50/50) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (ideally 2+ hours).
- Set the HVAC to full HOT later during bleeding (this helps purge air from the heater core).
- If you need access from below for the lower hose, lift the front with a floor jack and set it on jack stands at the frame.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve cooling system pressure (cold engine only)
- Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
- Place shop rags around the coolant degas bottle/cap area.
- Slowly loosen the coolant cap by hand to the first stop to vent any leftover pressure, then remove it fully.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get below hose level
- Position a drain pan (at least 3 gallons) under the radiator drain area.
- If equipped with an accessible drain cock, open it carefully by hand or with a flathead screwdriver (only if it has a screwdriver slot) and drain 1-2 gallons.
- If there’s no easy drain access, you can drain from the lower hose in Step 5—just be ready for a larger spill.
Step 3: Remove the intake ducting for access (if it blocks the upper hose)
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to loosen the intake tube clamps as needed.
- Release any plastic retainers with a trim clip removal tool.
- Move the ducting aside without straining any wiring.
Step 4: Identify the hose you’re replacing
- Upper radiator hose: runs from the top of the radiator to the thermostat/water outlet on the engine.
- Lower radiator hose: runs from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump inlet area; access is often easier from underneath.
Step 5: Release the hose clamps
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the factory spring clamps. (These pliers lock and hold the clamp open so your hands stay safe.)
- Slide each clamp back onto the hose, about 2-3 inches away from the fitting.
- If your truck has worm-gear clamps instead, loosen them with an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver.
Step 6: Break the hose loose without damaging the radiator neck
- Twist the hose gently by hand to break the seal.
- If it’s stuck, use a pick tool (specialty) to carefully lift the hose edge and let air in, then twist again.
- Do not pry hard against the radiator neck; it can crack.
Step 7: Remove the old hose and control the spill
- Pull the hose off the fitting while holding it aimed into the drain pan.
- Use shop rags to catch drips around the fan shroud and belts.
Step 8: Prep the fittings and compare parts
- Wipe the radiator neck and engine fitting clean using shop rags.
- Confirm the new hose matches the old one for length, bends, and end diameter.
- Install new clamps onto the new hose before you put the hose on the truck.
Step 9: Install the new hose
- Push the hose fully onto the radiator neck until it bottoms out.
- Push the other end fully onto the engine-side fitting.
- Position the clamps centered over the fitting bead (the raised ridge), then release using hose clamp pliers (specialty) or tighten using an 8mm socket.
- Tip: Misplaced clamps cause repeat leaks.
Step 10: Reinstall removed components
- Reinstall intake ducting and clips using the trim clip removal tool.
- Tighten intake clamps using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
Step 11: Refill coolant
- Close the drain cock by hand (snug only) if you opened it.
- Use a funnel to refill the degas bottle with Ford-approved, pre-mixed 50/50 coolant to the MAX line.
- If you drained a lot, refill slowly to reduce trapped air.
Step 12: Bleed air and verify no leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle with the coolant cap off for a few minutes while watching the coolant level.
- Set heat to full HOT and fan to medium.
- As the thermostat opens, the level may drop; add coolant using the funnel to maintain level.
- Once bubbles reduce and the level stabilizes, install the cap by hand.
- Let the engine reach normal operating temperature and inspect both hose ends for leaks using a light and safety glasses.
✅ After Repair
- Recheck coolant level after the first full heat-soak cycle (drive, cool down completely), then top off to the MAX line using a funnel.
- Inspect for dried coolant residue or wetness at both hose connections.
- Watch the temp gauge on the first drive; shut down if it overheats.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (sealed container; recycling center/auto parts store).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















