🔧 TLX - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll drain some coolant, swap the hose, then refill and bleed air so the cooling system works correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: replacing the upper radiator hose; lower hose is similar but accessed from below.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—keep away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Dispose of old coolant properly (don’t pour down drains).
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Flat trim clip removal tool
• Hose clamp pliers
• Slip-joint pliers
• Pick tool
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• Torque wrench (5–80 Nm range)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Hose clamps - Qty: 2
• Engine coolant (Honda/Acura Type 2 premix) - Qty: 1-2 gallons

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool fully (upper radiator hose should feel cool to the touch).
• Set the heater to MAX HOT later during bleeding (this helps move air out).
• Place a drain pan under the front of the car to catch coolant.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise the front safely

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front at the center front jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) at the approved support points.
• Keep wheel chocks in place.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover (if equipped)

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove bolts.
• Use a flat trim clip removal tool to pop out plastic clips.
• Torque to 9.8 Nm (7 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the 10mm bolts.

Step 3: Drain enough coolant

• Place the drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator drain area.
• Slowly loosen the radiator cap to the first stop to release any leftover pressure, then remove it fully (only if cool).
• Open the radiator drain (if accessible) and drain until the coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing.
• Tip: draining 1–2 liters is often enough.

Step 4: Remove the old radiator hose

• Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
• If space is tight, use slip-joint pliers carefully to reposition the clamp.
• Twist the hose by hand to break it free. If stuck, use a pick tool to gently lift the hose edge (do not gouge the plastic/metal fitting).
• Pull the hose off and aim it into the drain pan to catch any remaining coolant.
• Tip: twisting works better than pulling.

Step 5: Prep the fittings and install the new hose

• Use shop towels to clean the radiator neck and engine-side fitting.
• Slide new hose clamps onto the new hose before installation.
• Push the hose on until it seats fully against the stop/bead on each fitting.
• Use hose clamp pliers to position clamps behind the bead (this helps prevent leaks).

Step 6: Reinstall the lower engine cover

• Reinstall clips using the flat trim clip removal tool (to align) and hand pressure to lock them.
• Install bolts using the 10mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 9.8 Nm (7 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Refill coolant

• Use a funnel to refill with Honda/Acura Type 2 premix coolant at the radiator fill neck (and top off the reservoir to the MAX line).
• Install the radiator cap fully.

Step 8: Bleed air from the cooling system

• Start the engine and let it idle. Turn the heater to MAX HOT and fan on low.
• Watch the temperature gauge. Let the engine warm up until the cooling fan cycles on/off at least once.
• Shut the engine off and let it cool, then recheck the reservoir level and top off using the funnel.
• Tip: check for heat from vents—no heat can mean trapped air.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks with the engine idling: look around both ends of the new hose.
• After your first short drive, let the engine cool and recheck the coolant reservoir level; top off if needed.
• Verify the temperature gauge stays normal and the heater blows hot.
• Inspect the area again the next day for any dried coolant residue.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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